My Last Fishing Trip
By: Anthony Thompson
Well, my son, myself and two of his friends rented 2 cabins at sunset lake, all set for 2 days fishing. My wife and her mother, who lives with us went to Kansas too see our new grandchild.
Thursday night I got in 5 minutes late and had to look up the owner at home for everybody had gone home and nobody left out the keys so we could get in. After a cheeseburger and fries we unpacked, at 85 degrees outside we had the the a/c cranked up to the max and I caught the summer cold of a life time, sick all night and half the next day.
I struggled through the night praying that the lord would still let this turn out to be a great fishing trip for us. I was up at 5:00am Friday, still under the weather, to try fishing off the dock, being that the boys were still in bed. Getting up early for them is noon...... whatever.
When they finally got up we all took both of our boats out and headed out to bag our limit. My boat was on it's first time out and had a few rough spots (motor speed, new fish finder, ect.) Little kinks to work out. Needless to say fishing was slow and not all that good the first day. That night I went out myself, the boys went to town as young men will, I got a couple of good strikes, but no fish.
Saturday I laid in bed with a small fever, slept all day and half the night. I awoke about 3:00am Sunday determined to make this last day worth something. I got all the boys up at 6:00am and away all 3 of us went, do or die this time. We pulled out into the stumps, good bass habitat and got a few strikes. The fishing was slow so we moved to the east shore, and pulled up in some lily pads and waited.
We noticed the boat sat a little low in the water, but this was our first time out in this boat so maybe it was supposed to ride low.
I was using a 6" red shad. After casting out twice and getting caught on a stump once I gave it one more attempt, "Bingo!" he hit and the fight was on. I kept saying "I got him! I got him! And he practically jumped into the boat. My son took him off the hook and put him in the live well, which was
almost over flowing. I looked down and the drain in the middle of the boat was bubbling water up, so we decided we better head for shore (about a mile away). By the time we navigated through the logs, the water was up to our hind ends and we had to put my son all 300lbs. in the bow seat to keep the stern from going under. Well we limped into shore and got out just before the back end, (stern of the boat) sunk into the lake.
Being that we were on some grass, I got the truck and pulled her up onto land a little more. Then someone got the bright idea, "why not use the bilge pump" and in 5 minutes she was dry as a bone.
I neglected to tell you that it had rained both nights we were there, first time the boat was out and first bass boat I ever had. Oh' the drain plug was a little loose also, just minor things you learn when fishing from a boat.
All in all, it was an interesting weekend and a learning experience for all involved, but for somebody who loves fishing, well worth the experience.
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Nanticoke River Hot Spots
Nanticoke River Hot Spots
by Steve vonBrandt
LOCATION AND RAMPS
The Nanticoke River is located in both Delaware and Maryland, and runs through several small towns all the way to the Chesapeake Bay. There are two ramps that you can access from Delaware. Phillips landing is the most popular. It has a big parking lot with room for about 30 boats and trailers. It has two ramps that can be reached by taking rt.13a to the town of Bethel, going over the Bethel bridges, and past the Bethel hole to Portsville. Take your second right after Portsville Pond, and follow the signs to Phillips landing. The other ramp can be reached by turning off
rt.13, and taking rt. #20 west, down to Shipley Street in Seaford, and following the green signs to the launching ramp. There are restroom facilities, and room for about 40 trailers. There are two ramps there with deep water and good docks.
LOCATIONS AND LURES
The best location to start searching depends on the time of the year. In the spring from April to the end of May, launch at Phillips landing, and head to the right towards Broad Creek. About 1/4 mile up, past the lily pads on the left hand side, is a series of laydowns, and underwater boulders. The sun hits this area all day, and warms the water up a few degrees more than the rest of the area. Start working all the visible structure, laydowns, etc. with a fast moving bait such as a 3/8 ounce Terminator Spinnerbait in chartruese/white, with tandem blades. If you don't get any takers in a short time, rework the same area with a crankbait parallel to the pads and in the wood. You should have a spider grub rigged on a spinning rod also, with 6-8 pound test line. Brown/orange or watermelon are a good choice. If you can't locate any bass in this area, then continue up into Broad Creek, all the way towards the Bethel Hole. Work the bridge pilings and the wood on the turn before the Bethel Hole, with a black/blue tube bait, jig, and a buzzbait. If these locations fail to produce, turn on the outboard and head back towards Phillips Landing.
Proceed past the ramps, and make a turn at the main channel towards the Woodland Ferry. There will be a series of docks and pilings a short distance before the Woodland ferry that should be worked well with a buzzbait and spinnerbait, then move in closer and flip a black/blue jig or a Senko. After working these docks, cross over to the entrance of the creek, and work the mouth with a spinnerbait and a buzzbait, then work all the wood with a jig and a Senko. Next, move down to the Ferry crossing, and throw small worms and Senkos right up against the sea wall, being careful of the ferry and the cable. After leaving this area, head up river towards Maryland to the next major creek on your right. There is a lot of wood there that should be worked thoroughly with spinnerbaits and buzzbaits first, then rework the same area with the jig and Senko. Many times while searching for bass here you will run into some decent size Stripers.
BEST TIMES
The best time to work these areas is the first two hours of the incoming tide, and the
last two hours of the outgoing tide. Three days prior to a new moon in April are best, but other times produce with a little patience. Many 2-3 pound bass are caught in this area.
WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS
When all else fails, run up into "Broad Creek," on either tide, and work the Bethel hole with tube baits and Senkos cast directly up on the bank and then pull them slowly into the water. This is a bass spawning area, and only one of a few on the river, so be respectful, and practice catch and release.
BAIT STORES AND LICENSE
A&K tackle has a variety of lures and bait, and are open year round You don't need a freshwater license in Delaware to fish tidewater, but you need both a Freshwater and Bay Sport license in Maryland. The weekends will have a lot of boat traffic, jet skis and the like, but all in all, most people are pretty respectful. There is a variety of wildlife along the river to enjoy, so take the whole family sometimes. It will keep them occupied all day.
by Steve vonBrandt
LOCATION AND RAMPS
The Nanticoke River is located in both Delaware and Maryland, and runs through several small towns all the way to the Chesapeake Bay. There are two ramps that you can access from Delaware. Phillips landing is the most popular. It has a big parking lot with room for about 30 boats and trailers. It has two ramps that can be reached by taking rt.13a to the town of Bethel, going over the Bethel bridges, and past the Bethel hole to Portsville. Take your second right after Portsville Pond, and follow the signs to Phillips landing. The other ramp can be reached by turning off
rt.13, and taking rt. #20 west, down to Shipley Street in Seaford, and following the green signs to the launching ramp. There are restroom facilities, and room for about 40 trailers. There are two ramps there with deep water and good docks.
LOCATIONS AND LURES
The best location to start searching depends on the time of the year. In the spring from April to the end of May, launch at Phillips landing, and head to the right towards Broad Creek. About 1/4 mile up, past the lily pads on the left hand side, is a series of laydowns, and underwater boulders. The sun hits this area all day, and warms the water up a few degrees more than the rest of the area. Start working all the visible structure, laydowns, etc. with a fast moving bait such as a 3/8 ounce Terminator Spinnerbait in chartruese/white, with tandem blades. If you don't get any takers in a short time, rework the same area with a crankbait parallel to the pads and in the wood. You should have a spider grub rigged on a spinning rod also, with 6-8 pound test line. Brown/orange or watermelon are a good choice. If you can't locate any bass in this area, then continue up into Broad Creek, all the way towards the Bethel Hole. Work the bridge pilings and the wood on the turn before the Bethel Hole, with a black/blue tube bait, jig, and a buzzbait. If these locations fail to produce, turn on the outboard and head back towards Phillips Landing.
Proceed past the ramps, and make a turn at the main channel towards the Woodland Ferry. There will be a series of docks and pilings a short distance before the Woodland ferry that should be worked well with a buzzbait and spinnerbait, then move in closer and flip a black/blue jig or a Senko. After working these docks, cross over to the entrance of the creek, and work the mouth with a spinnerbait and a buzzbait, then work all the wood with a jig and a Senko. Next, move down to the Ferry crossing, and throw small worms and Senkos right up against the sea wall, being careful of the ferry and the cable. After leaving this area, head up river towards Maryland to the next major creek on your right. There is a lot of wood there that should be worked thoroughly with spinnerbaits and buzzbaits first, then rework the same area with the jig and Senko. Many times while searching for bass here you will run into some decent size Stripers.
BEST TIMES
The best time to work these areas is the first two hours of the incoming tide, and the
last two hours of the outgoing tide. Three days prior to a new moon in April are best, but other times produce with a little patience. Many 2-3 pound bass are caught in this area.
WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS
When all else fails, run up into "Broad Creek," on either tide, and work the Bethel hole with tube baits and Senkos cast directly up on the bank and then pull them slowly into the water. This is a bass spawning area, and only one of a few on the river, so be respectful, and practice catch and release.
BAIT STORES AND LICENSE
A&K tackle has a variety of lures and bait, and are open year round You don't need a freshwater license in Delaware to fish tidewater, but you need both a Freshwater and Bay Sport license in Maryland. The weekends will have a lot of boat traffic, jet skis and the like, but all in all, most people are pretty respectful. There is a variety of wildlife along the river to enjoy, so take the whole family sometimes. It will keep them occupied all day.
Night Time Buzzin'
Night Time Buzzin'
When it comes to catching bass at night, anytime of the summer or fall, buzzbaits are some real fun. Like in my article on Night Time Crankin', night fishing can be awesome. But, buzzbaits are very unique and can be fun to fish.
When throwing these baits, use them around any flat or any type of cover like weeds or sticks. The bass that hit these baits are the most aggressive, same as I said in the crankbait article. So you will normally find the most aggressive bass. So throw the buzzbait first at your spot, then work the spot with the plastic worm or jigs.
As for the type of buzzbaits, I suggest to use Viper Baits and Blue Fox. These make
a lot of noise and can handle a lot of big fish. Use the darker black/red, black/blue, and black colors for night. Throw these with a 6'6" to 7' medium heavy action rod, and a high speed reel, 6.3:1. This will get your bait to the surface faster and keep it up better. So I prefer to use a Shimano Series rod or G. Loomis rods, with a Shimano Curado or Chronarch reels.
So with these little tips, I hope it will help you out with your night time fishing. So go out and get yourself some buzzbaits and catch some lunkers. It is fun and a good way to catch a limit at night. Good Luck!
When it comes to catching bass at night, anytime of the summer or fall, buzzbaits are some real fun. Like in my article on Night Time Crankin', night fishing can be awesome. But, buzzbaits are very unique and can be fun to fish.
When throwing these baits, use them around any flat or any type of cover like weeds or sticks. The bass that hit these baits are the most aggressive, same as I said in the crankbait article. So you will normally find the most aggressive bass. So throw the buzzbait first at your spot, then work the spot with the plastic worm or jigs.
As for the type of buzzbaits, I suggest to use Viper Baits and Blue Fox. These make
a lot of noise and can handle a lot of big fish. Use the darker black/red, black/blue, and black colors for night. Throw these with a 6'6" to 7' medium heavy action rod, and a high speed reel, 6.3:1. This will get your bait to the surface faster and keep it up better. So I prefer to use a Shimano Series rod or G. Loomis rods, with a Shimano Curado or Chronarch reels.
So with these little tips, I hope it will help you out with your night time fishing. So go out and get yourself some buzzbaits and catch some lunkers. It is fun and a good way to catch a limit at night. Good Luck!
Night Time Crankin'
Night Time Crankin'
Well when it comes to fishing at night time, there really is no more an exciting way to catch bass than on crankbaits. This is fact. I think that bass are so honed into loud noises and fast moving baits. This is my own opinion, you may have your own, but I will give you my thoughts and tips on throwing these baits at night.
If you are going to pick a good crankbait I would put all my money into 2 brands of baits. Norman and Pradco Fat Free Shads. These two baits have the best shape, color, and wiggle of all the crankbaits out there. I suggest for night time to use a darker color. I look for the darkest I can find. I think for the Norman Crank Bait, use either the Midnight Blue, Sun Texas Red, or Sun Crawfish. For the Fat Free Shad, I like the Threadfin Shad, Brown Crawfish, and Red Shad. These baits are my number one colors to throw at night. If I'm going to throw my baits, I recommend to use a 6'6" medium action rod to a 7'
medium heavy action rod. I like to throw them on either the GLoomis or Shimano series rods. They seem to work really well. Reels don't really need to be too serious. Just make sure that they either have a 5.1 or 6.1 gear ratio's to get the baits down to it's maximum depth fast. It is really important to make as long of cast as possible to get your bait in the strike zone the longest. Use a lighter line so you can get maximum depth yet big enough to handle the fish. I like and prefer to use 10-12 pound test P-Line. This is about it for the tackle you need.
Now when looking for a particular spot key in on spots where there has been a lot of bait present at the time. This will be the spot where bass are eating shad and only this. Look for any birds before it gets dark and this will give away a ball of shad or any bait activity.
Yet, if there is no bait or birds really congregating, then go to the shallow grassy flats or long points with rock and sticks. The bigger bass seem to like sticks and rocks. Work your bait slowly over the rocks and sticks. Most of these colors of crankbaits kind of look like crawfish, so if you work it slowly over the structure and it looks like a crawdad slowly scooting away. That's what you are looking for in your spots.
This might not be the most productive way to catch fish, but it will be the way to get the more aggressive fish. It is in my books the most fun way to catch the fish at night. It can absolutely scare the snot out of you. It is a really fun way to catch the fish.
The best times when the night is a full moon. This is when the bass can see and key in on your bait best. Try to plan your trip around and during the full moon. Trust me this will get you more strikes and more fish. I can admit to this, I had a tourney on the full moon and all my bites were on crankbaits and then 2 weeks after with a new moon, no bites on it. So plan around the full moon.
I hope that this little article on crankbaitin' at night will help you out and catch a few more fish at night. It is really the most fun way to catch the most aggressive bass out there. Like I said, when you get hit, the bite can be so tremendous that you will get the snot scared out of you. I promise, it is worth it though.
For any of these baits, Norman Crank Baits, Fat Free Shads, GLoomis Rods, and Shimano Rods, P-Line, look here at Bigfishtackle.com and they have the best prices and variety around.
Good Luck and God Bless! Eric Elshere
Well when it comes to fishing at night time, there really is no more an exciting way to catch bass than on crankbaits. This is fact. I think that bass are so honed into loud noises and fast moving baits. This is my own opinion, you may have your own, but I will give you my thoughts and tips on throwing these baits at night.
If you are going to pick a good crankbait I would put all my money into 2 brands of baits. Norman and Pradco Fat Free Shads. These two baits have the best shape, color, and wiggle of all the crankbaits out there. I suggest for night time to use a darker color. I look for the darkest I can find. I think for the Norman Crank Bait, use either the Midnight Blue, Sun Texas Red, or Sun Crawfish. For the Fat Free Shad, I like the Threadfin Shad, Brown Crawfish, and Red Shad. These baits are my number one colors to throw at night. If I'm going to throw my baits, I recommend to use a 6'6" medium action rod to a 7'
medium heavy action rod. I like to throw them on either the GLoomis or Shimano series rods. They seem to work really well. Reels don't really need to be too serious. Just make sure that they either have a 5.1 or 6.1 gear ratio's to get the baits down to it's maximum depth fast. It is really important to make as long of cast as possible to get your bait in the strike zone the longest. Use a lighter line so you can get maximum depth yet big enough to handle the fish. I like and prefer to use 10-12 pound test P-Line. This is about it for the tackle you need.
Now when looking for a particular spot key in on spots where there has been a lot of bait present at the time. This will be the spot where bass are eating shad and only this. Look for any birds before it gets dark and this will give away a ball of shad or any bait activity.
Yet, if there is no bait or birds really congregating, then go to the shallow grassy flats or long points with rock and sticks. The bigger bass seem to like sticks and rocks. Work your bait slowly over the rocks and sticks. Most of these colors of crankbaits kind of look like crawfish, so if you work it slowly over the structure and it looks like a crawdad slowly scooting away. That's what you are looking for in your spots.
This might not be the most productive way to catch fish, but it will be the way to get the more aggressive fish. It is in my books the most fun way to catch the fish at night. It can absolutely scare the snot out of you. It is a really fun way to catch the fish.
The best times when the night is a full moon. This is when the bass can see and key in on your bait best. Try to plan your trip around and during the full moon. Trust me this will get you more strikes and more fish. I can admit to this, I had a tourney on the full moon and all my bites were on crankbaits and then 2 weeks after with a new moon, no bites on it. So plan around the full moon.
I hope that this little article on crankbaitin' at night will help you out and catch a few more fish at night. It is really the most fun way to catch the most aggressive bass out there. Like I said, when you get hit, the bite can be so tremendous that you will get the snot scared out of you. I promise, it is worth it though.
For any of these baits, Norman Crank Baits, Fat Free Shads, GLoomis Rods, and Shimano Rods, P-Line, look here at Bigfishtackle.com and they have the best prices and variety around.
Good Luck and God Bless! Eric Elshere
MUSKIES AND THE FIGURE EIGHT
MUSKIES AND THE FIGURE EIGHT
By David Christian
Muskies can be one of the more stubborn of our aquatic friends, one of the techniques we use at Cave Run Muskie Guide Service to trigger strikes from these viscous fish is a move commonly called the “figure eight”.
This technique will trigger strikes from following fish right at the side of the boat with only a few inches of line out. It is very exciting to see a fish appear from the depths and attack a lure at boatside. Our fishing logs indicate that over thirty percent of all muskies are taken on the figure eight.
The figure eight is nothing more than ‘drawing’ a sideways eight in the water with your rodtip. The erratic action of the lure will give the appearance of a frantic baitfish trying not to be eaten. A muskie has followed the lure because it is curios and in a neutral mood, now that the lure has done something different it appears more realistic and triggers the final strike.
The proper figure eight begins as the lure comes in to the anglers sight, look a foot below and a foot behind the lure for a follower. As you go into the first turn of the figure eight it must be smooth and quiet as not to spook the muskie. Don’t stop the lure or the
fish will turn away knowing it is not real. A smooth figure eight will continue into the second and third turns as you look for the muskie. If a fish was sighted continue doing a number of figure eight's in the water, I have captured muskies on the 10th figure eight, they will sometimes reposition themselves to get a better attack angle.
When muskie fishing it is required that you perform at least one figure eight at the end of every cast, insuring that there is not a fish following deep and out of your site. Thirty-percent odds are pretty good, don't give them to the musky.
By David Christian
Muskies can be one of the more stubborn of our aquatic friends, one of the techniques we use at Cave Run Muskie Guide Service to trigger strikes from these viscous fish is a move commonly called the “figure eight”.
This technique will trigger strikes from following fish right at the side of the boat with only a few inches of line out. It is very exciting to see a fish appear from the depths and attack a lure at boatside. Our fishing logs indicate that over thirty percent of all muskies are taken on the figure eight.
The figure eight is nothing more than ‘drawing’ a sideways eight in the water with your rodtip. The erratic action of the lure will give the appearance of a frantic baitfish trying not to be eaten. A muskie has followed the lure because it is curios and in a neutral mood, now that the lure has done something different it appears more realistic and triggers the final strike.
The proper figure eight begins as the lure comes in to the anglers sight, look a foot below and a foot behind the lure for a follower. As you go into the first turn of the figure eight it must be smooth and quiet as not to spook the muskie. Don’t stop the lure or the
fish will turn away knowing it is not real. A smooth figure eight will continue into the second and third turns as you look for the muskie. If a fish was sighted continue doing a number of figure eight's in the water, I have captured muskies on the 10th figure eight, they will sometimes reposition themselves to get a better attack angle.
When muskie fishing it is required that you perform at least one figure eight at the end of every cast, insuring that there is not a fish following deep and out of your site. Thirty-percent odds are pretty good, don't give them to the musky.
Weeds, Muskies and Cave Run Lake
Weeds, Muskies and Cave Run Lake
By David Christian
Cave Run Lake is known as “The Muskie Capital of the South” and is highly ranked as Kentucky’s muskie hotspot. When we first think of a musky hunting adventure on Cave Run Lake we anticipate banging lures into some form of timber. The variety and amount of timber this lake holds is phenomenal, whether it’s standing in 30 feet of water or some downed shoreline wood, we always associate three things, Cave Run Lake, muskies, and timber.
Aquatic life is changing dramatically on this body of water. The past three years have seen major developments of aquatic vegetation (weeds). This aquatic vegetation is known as Eurasian milfoil and has produced giant beds and mile-long areas to troll.
These weed-beds are now encountered in every bay that is associated with the main lake basin. There are also small, scattered weeds in the tributary arms, which means they are expanding rapidly. This Eurasian milfoil is one of the quickest spreading types of vegetation known in our waterways and can quickly take over a lake. The depth of this millfoil growth is from the surface to 13 feet deep on our “clear water”
years. The floods and long periods of murky water will keep its growth a little shallower, nine feet is usually the maximum depth. As musky fishermen know, our quarry loves to hang around weedbeds. If you have ever ventured into the northern area of musky country, these weedy bays are one of the first places you begin fishing. Though we may think this newfound resource is wonderful, it has it's dangers and associated problems.
Eurasian milfoil was introduced from Europe in the early 1900's. It is found from mid-America eastward and also on the West Coast. It is a perennial that blooms from June through August. Milfoil grows very rapidly and forms dense mats that will grow to the surface. The plants have a long thin reddish stem about 1/8 inch in diameter with 12 to 20 small green leaflets in each leaf-section and they are arranged in groups of four down the length of the stem. Eurasian milfoil is kin to our native Northern milfoil. As with most organisms introduced into an unnatural environment they can wreak havoc once they are established, take zebra mussels for example. Once Eurasian milfoil has established itself it can become very difficult to control or remove. Because it grows so rapidly and creates such thick mats it can wipe out native plants by blocking sunlight and eventually killing them off completely. It can eventually dominate the entire water system. The method that Eurasian milfoil utilizes to reproduce is what makes it so successful. Plant fragments are its main source of reproduction. These tiny pieces can create an entirely new plant once they come in contact with suitable substrate. Eventually these single plants will form giant mats of vegetation. Most of the northern and Canadian waters warn you about the spread of organisms and request that you clean your boat and motor before putting it in another body of water. These tiny fragments of vegetation and other microorganisms are the reason for these requests.
Government agencies are trying a number of methods to control the spread of Eurasian milfoil which include hand and mechanical harvesting, water level manipulation and aquatic herbicides. Harvesting, whether by hand or mechanics is very difficult because of the fact that, any plant fragments left behind will produce a new plant and start the "spread" all over again. The yearly six-foot drawdown at Cave Run Reservoir will keep its' weeds at a manageable level, but this water manipulation is only viable on reservoirs. Aquatic herbicides are a last resort for the control of Eurasian milfoil because of its adverse effects on the ecosystem. There is an effective control method being tried in some areas. It is the use of aquatic insects such as the milfoil weevil, as the name indicates its preferred forage is milfoil. The number of considerable assets for using this insect for weed control are, that it is native to North America, the reduced costs and limited environmental impact.
As conservation conscious anglers, we need to help control this swift spreading vegetation. There are some ways we can refrain from increasing the contamination to other waters and slow the advancement of Eurasian milfoil at Cave Run Lake. Try not to run your big motor through the weeds, this chops up the weeds and the fragments will quickly root themselves in areas as the current or wind pushes them about the lake. When you fish these weedlines, try your best not to cast too deep into them and foul your lure. Every time you snag these weeds and remove them from the lure, you are assisting the advancement. Remember to check your boat before and after you leave a body of water that has any undesirable organisms such as Eurasian milfoil. If you are involved with fishing clubs, inform them of the dangers of Eurasian milfoil. Some weeds are good for the fishing and aquatic life, but too much of something can also be bad. By putting forth this extra effort you can help save your fishing hotspots and keep them from becoming weed-choked.
By David Christian
Cave Run Lake is known as “The Muskie Capital of the South” and is highly ranked as Kentucky’s muskie hotspot. When we first think of a musky hunting adventure on Cave Run Lake we anticipate banging lures into some form of timber. The variety and amount of timber this lake holds is phenomenal, whether it’s standing in 30 feet of water or some downed shoreline wood, we always associate three things, Cave Run Lake, muskies, and timber.
Aquatic life is changing dramatically on this body of water. The past three years have seen major developments of aquatic vegetation (weeds). This aquatic vegetation is known as Eurasian milfoil and has produced giant beds and mile-long areas to troll.
These weed-beds are now encountered in every bay that is associated with the main lake basin. There are also small, scattered weeds in the tributary arms, which means they are expanding rapidly. This Eurasian milfoil is one of the quickest spreading types of vegetation known in our waterways and can quickly take over a lake. The depth of this millfoil growth is from the surface to 13 feet deep on our “clear water”
years. The floods and long periods of murky water will keep its growth a little shallower, nine feet is usually the maximum depth. As musky fishermen know, our quarry loves to hang around weedbeds. If you have ever ventured into the northern area of musky country, these weedy bays are one of the first places you begin fishing. Though we may think this newfound resource is wonderful, it has it's dangers and associated problems.
Eurasian milfoil was introduced from Europe in the early 1900's. It is found from mid-America eastward and also on the West Coast. It is a perennial that blooms from June through August. Milfoil grows very rapidly and forms dense mats that will grow to the surface. The plants have a long thin reddish stem about 1/8 inch in diameter with 12 to 20 small green leaflets in each leaf-section and they are arranged in groups of four down the length of the stem. Eurasian milfoil is kin to our native Northern milfoil. As with most organisms introduced into an unnatural environment they can wreak havoc once they are established, take zebra mussels for example. Once Eurasian milfoil has established itself it can become very difficult to control or remove. Because it grows so rapidly and creates such thick mats it can wipe out native plants by blocking sunlight and eventually killing them off completely. It can eventually dominate the entire water system. The method that Eurasian milfoil utilizes to reproduce is what makes it so successful. Plant fragments are its main source of reproduction. These tiny pieces can create an entirely new plant once they come in contact with suitable substrate. Eventually these single plants will form giant mats of vegetation. Most of the northern and Canadian waters warn you about the spread of organisms and request that you clean your boat and motor before putting it in another body of water. These tiny fragments of vegetation and other microorganisms are the reason for these requests.
Government agencies are trying a number of methods to control the spread of Eurasian milfoil which include hand and mechanical harvesting, water level manipulation and aquatic herbicides. Harvesting, whether by hand or mechanics is very difficult because of the fact that, any plant fragments left behind will produce a new plant and start the "spread" all over again. The yearly six-foot drawdown at Cave Run Reservoir will keep its' weeds at a manageable level, but this water manipulation is only viable on reservoirs. Aquatic herbicides are a last resort for the control of Eurasian milfoil because of its adverse effects on the ecosystem. There is an effective control method being tried in some areas. It is the use of aquatic insects such as the milfoil weevil, as the name indicates its preferred forage is milfoil. The number of considerable assets for using this insect for weed control are, that it is native to North America, the reduced costs and limited environmental impact.
As conservation conscious anglers, we need to help control this swift spreading vegetation. There are some ways we can refrain from increasing the contamination to other waters and slow the advancement of Eurasian milfoil at Cave Run Lake. Try not to run your big motor through the weeds, this chops up the weeds and the fragments will quickly root themselves in areas as the current or wind pushes them about the lake. When you fish these weedlines, try your best not to cast too deep into them and foul your lure. Every time you snag these weeds and remove them from the lure, you are assisting the advancement. Remember to check your boat before and after you leave a body of water that has any undesirable organisms such as Eurasian milfoil. If you are involved with fishing clubs, inform them of the dangers of Eurasian milfoil. Some weeds are good for the fishing and aquatic life, but too much of something can also be bad. By putting forth this extra effort you can help save your fishing hotspots and keep them from becoming weed-choked.
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
INSHORE FISHING BASICS: CHOOSING
INSHORE FISHING BASICS: CHOOSING
TACKLE AND EQUIPMENT - EASY AS 1 - 2 - 3
Fishing is a great sport. Its popularity is increasing every day and more and more people are getting involved. The result of this continued growth is a large number of eager beginners. Beginners know that knowledge is the key to success. Reading, attending fishing schools and lectures, and asking questions of those with experience is the key to knowledge.
Traveling in the circles that I do, I usually end up talking about fishing. The people most eager to talk fishing are the beginners or those that are relatively inexperienced. The questions they ask are good questions, to the point and relevant. They want, appreciate, and deserve answers that are direct and honest. In trying to answer all these questions over the years, I have noticed that the most commonly asked questions are related to inshore fishing and specifically to tackle, the tools of the sport.
I have my theories about this observation. Fishing involves a lot more than just having the right tackle. Knowledge of areas to fish, techniques to apply, bait to use, tides, weather and numerous other things all are involved in the sport to some extent, but are not as frequently asked about as is tackle. Why is this? I believe that having the correct tackle is the best starting point for the beginner and he probably feels the same. It is something that can be immediately achieved with a modest investment of time and money. Amassing the proper assortment of tackle and related equipment provides a feeling of accomplishment and a firm base with which to begin the real job of learning how to fish. I think the beginner accepts the fact that such knowledge will come slowly with time and experience. Having the tackle however, is of immediate importance!
Talking tackle is a really big subject and often very confusing for the novice, lacking the hands on experience. In trying to provide some help, I have organized a list of what I believe to be the most important concerns for tackle and related equipment. I have tried to keep this list as simple as possible, listing only three specific suggestions. Wherever possible I give specific reference to the particular type or product that I use. I feel this is important because when people ask me questions, they want to know exactly what product I have used and been successful with.
ROD AND REEL COMBINATIONS
1. Medium/light weight bait-casting.
Penn PPG 4971 rod and 930 reel with 15 lb. Ande line. This outfit would be appropriate for flounder, fluke, weakfish and small blues.
2. Medium/light spinning.
Penn PSG 4871A rod and 722Z reel with 10 lb. Ande Super Soft line. This would take care of casting jigs and lures for blues and weaks and school size bass.
3. Medium/light conventional.
Penn PC 3801L rod and 320 GTi levelwind or 25 GLS reels with 25 lb. Ande line.
BOAT EQUIPMENT
1. Chart, navigation and bottom contour, waterproof.
"Carmark" bay chart for sportfishing. This chart provides information about fishing areas and local names. In addition, a NOAA regulation navigation chart should be aboard for precision navigation and buoy information.
2. Bait cutting board and knife.
Preferably a rod holder mounted teak or nylon version which is available in most marine supply houses or the popular and inexpensive bucket mounted board. Dexter or Russell fillet knives of 7 or 8 inches serve well for both bait and fish cleaning purposes.
3. Landing net.
I prefer a telescoping model that stores easily, with at least a 30 inch wide opening. Several different manufacturers produce such nets but be sure it utilizes a polypropylene mesh. This material is light, nonabsorbent and long lasting.
SPECIAL TACKLE BOX ITEMS
1. Fisherman's pliers.
Parallel jaw pliers with wire cutters, spring loaded, and in the smaller of the two sizes available, 5 inch. Sargent, Manley, Sampo and Berkeley make good pliers and stainless steel varieties are available if you can afford the high price.
2. Sharpening stone.
For keeping knives and hooks in top shape. Several different manufacturers, styles and shapes are available. Keep it as simple as possible.
3. Swivels.
Assorted sizes of high quality barrel and combination barrel/snap swivels should be on hand. Sampo makes excellent swivels both standard and ball bearing, in all varieties.
HOOKS
1. Pre-smelled and packaged. (various local brands) Have at least one dozen (two packages) for each of the most sought after species.
My recommendations are:
Fluke - 2/0 English wide gap.
Flounder - #8 Chestertown with yellow beads.
Blackfish - #5 Virginia style.
Weakfish - 2/0 Bait holder.
Stripers - 4/0 to 6/0 Bait holder.
Bluefish - 5/0 with 6 inch single strand wire leader.
2. Loose hooks for live bait.
I use size 7/0 O'Shaugnessy short shank Gamakatsu hooks for stripers and size 5/0 for weakfish. These hooks are exceptionally sharp right out of the package.
3. Miscellaneous hooks.
For backups, special conditions, and custom rigs tied as needed, I carry an assortment of O’Shaugnessy style short shank hooks in sizes from #8 to 6/0. Mustad hooks are excellent quality and reasonably priced for this purpose. Sharpen them before putting them in your tackle box.
WEIGHTS
1. Sinkers for still and drift fishing.
The basic variety of bank style sinker which is available in all tackle shops will suffice. Cover the range of 3 to 8 ounces with the bulk of them in the 5 ounce size. This is the weight I most often use.
2. Drails for live bait fishing.
In areas where water depth is rarely over thirty feet, 3 ounce drails will be just right in most cases. I also carry a few four ounce and two ounce versions for the odd occasion when they may be needed. Bead Chain brand is an excellent choice.
3. Small weights for special applications.
On many occasions small specialty weights are useful. I carry an assortment of Dipsey swivel sinkers, Rubbercore torpedo weights and egg sinkers covering the range from 1/2 ounce to 2 ounces in each style. Water Gremlin is the brand I use.
CASTING LURES
1. Hopkins 1 1/4 ounce no-equal #3SB with single hook white bucktail.
This is a very versatile productive lure which can be worked at all depths. It will catch bass, blues and weakfish. As with all lures, if bluefish are around, a short trace of stranded wire leader should be used to prevent chopped off lines. Berkeley makes pre-rigged leaders for just such purposes. I use the 6 inch 20 pound test version.
2. Rebel #S3001S, 5 inch sinking minnow in silver with black back.
This will also catch all gamefish but is particularly deadly for mid-water use and when fish are on the shy side. This is a super lure for big weakfish in water up to 15 feet deep. It is also a great lure for school bass along the banks and edges of channels.
3. Atom #58P, 1 1/4 ounce "Talking Atom" surface popper.
The best all around surface lure. This lure it most effective with calm water conditions, in fairly shallow water, or when fish are feeding near the surface. It also casts a long distance.
ADDENDUM
Those things that I think are a must, but mentioning them where I should have would have broken my self-imposed rule of only three recommendations.
1. Lead head hooks.
These are a must for rigging plastic lures such as jelly worms and salty dog shrimps. These are still very effective lures. Mann makes excellent lead heads in two sizes. I carry at least half a dozen of each size.
2. Diamond Jigs.
These jigs are best for working schools of fish in a vertical fashion rather than casting. Ava brand jigs are popular and work very well. For bay fishing I use the 007, 17 and 27 sizes both with white tubes and with plain hooks.
3. McClane's Fishing Encyclopedia.
This is a most informative and useful addition to any fisherman's library. I would have to consider it a part of the basic equipment required. It can provide information about the life history, feeding habits and basic behavior of the fish you will pursue, the basic rigs you should use and the knots you will have to learn to tie. I still consult it frequently and can't imagine not having it.
All that I have mentioned may seem like a lot but it is what I believe to be essential for the person that really wants to be successful at catching fish. I am also sure that other people might have recommendations that differ from mine. What I have written is not the last word, but simply my suggestion. Hopefully it can serve as a guideline for someone that has made up their mind to quit playing games and do it the right way.
TACKLE AND EQUIPMENT - EASY AS 1 - 2 - 3
Fishing is a great sport. Its popularity is increasing every day and more and more people are getting involved. The result of this continued growth is a large number of eager beginners. Beginners know that knowledge is the key to success. Reading, attending fishing schools and lectures, and asking questions of those with experience is the key to knowledge.
Traveling in the circles that I do, I usually end up talking about fishing. The people most eager to talk fishing are the beginners or those that are relatively inexperienced. The questions they ask are good questions, to the point and relevant. They want, appreciate, and deserve answers that are direct and honest. In trying to answer all these questions over the years, I have noticed that the most commonly asked questions are related to inshore fishing and specifically to tackle, the tools of the sport.
I have my theories about this observation. Fishing involves a lot more than just having the right tackle. Knowledge of areas to fish, techniques to apply, bait to use, tides, weather and numerous other things all are involved in the sport to some extent, but are not as frequently asked about as is tackle. Why is this? I believe that having the correct tackle is the best starting point for the beginner and he probably feels the same. It is something that can be immediately achieved with a modest investment of time and money. Amassing the proper assortment of tackle and related equipment provides a feeling of accomplishment and a firm base with which to begin the real job of learning how to fish. I think the beginner accepts the fact that such knowledge will come slowly with time and experience. Having the tackle however, is of immediate importance!
Talking tackle is a really big subject and often very confusing for the novice, lacking the hands on experience. In trying to provide some help, I have organized a list of what I believe to be the most important concerns for tackle and related equipment. I have tried to keep this list as simple as possible, listing only three specific suggestions. Wherever possible I give specific reference to the particular type or product that I use. I feel this is important because when people ask me questions, they want to know exactly what product I have used and been successful with.
ROD AND REEL COMBINATIONS
1. Medium/light weight bait-casting.
Penn PPG 4971 rod and 930 reel with 15 lb. Ande line. This outfit would be appropriate for flounder, fluke, weakfish and small blues.
2. Medium/light spinning.
Penn PSG 4871A rod and 722Z reel with 10 lb. Ande Super Soft line. This would take care of casting jigs and lures for blues and weaks and school size bass.
3. Medium/light conventional.
Penn PC 3801L rod and 320 GTi levelwind or 25 GLS reels with 25 lb. Ande line.
BOAT EQUIPMENT
1. Chart, navigation and bottom contour, waterproof.
"Carmark" bay chart for sportfishing. This chart provides information about fishing areas and local names. In addition, a NOAA regulation navigation chart should be aboard for precision navigation and buoy information.
2. Bait cutting board and knife.
Preferably a rod holder mounted teak or nylon version which is available in most marine supply houses or the popular and inexpensive bucket mounted board. Dexter or Russell fillet knives of 7 or 8 inches serve well for both bait and fish cleaning purposes.
3. Landing net.
I prefer a telescoping model that stores easily, with at least a 30 inch wide opening. Several different manufacturers produce such nets but be sure it utilizes a polypropylene mesh. This material is light, nonabsorbent and long lasting.
SPECIAL TACKLE BOX ITEMS
1. Fisherman's pliers.
Parallel jaw pliers with wire cutters, spring loaded, and in the smaller of the two sizes available, 5 inch. Sargent, Manley, Sampo and Berkeley make good pliers and stainless steel varieties are available if you can afford the high price.
2. Sharpening stone.
For keeping knives and hooks in top shape. Several different manufacturers, styles and shapes are available. Keep it as simple as possible.
3. Swivels.
Assorted sizes of high quality barrel and combination barrel/snap swivels should be on hand. Sampo makes excellent swivels both standard and ball bearing, in all varieties.
HOOKS
1. Pre-smelled and packaged. (various local brands) Have at least one dozen (two packages) for each of the most sought after species.
My recommendations are:
Fluke - 2/0 English wide gap.
Flounder - #8 Chestertown with yellow beads.
Blackfish - #5 Virginia style.
Weakfish - 2/0 Bait holder.
Stripers - 4/0 to 6/0 Bait holder.
Bluefish - 5/0 with 6 inch single strand wire leader.
2. Loose hooks for live bait.
I use size 7/0 O'Shaugnessy short shank Gamakatsu hooks for stripers and size 5/0 for weakfish. These hooks are exceptionally sharp right out of the package.
3. Miscellaneous hooks.
For backups, special conditions, and custom rigs tied as needed, I carry an assortment of O’Shaugnessy style short shank hooks in sizes from #8 to 6/0. Mustad hooks are excellent quality and reasonably priced for this purpose. Sharpen them before putting them in your tackle box.
WEIGHTS
1. Sinkers for still and drift fishing.
The basic variety of bank style sinker which is available in all tackle shops will suffice. Cover the range of 3 to 8 ounces with the bulk of them in the 5 ounce size. This is the weight I most often use.
2. Drails for live bait fishing.
In areas where water depth is rarely over thirty feet, 3 ounce drails will be just right in most cases. I also carry a few four ounce and two ounce versions for the odd occasion when they may be needed. Bead Chain brand is an excellent choice.
3. Small weights for special applications.
On many occasions small specialty weights are useful. I carry an assortment of Dipsey swivel sinkers, Rubbercore torpedo weights and egg sinkers covering the range from 1/2 ounce to 2 ounces in each style. Water Gremlin is the brand I use.
CASTING LURES
1. Hopkins 1 1/4 ounce no-equal #3SB with single hook white bucktail.
This is a very versatile productive lure which can be worked at all depths. It will catch bass, blues and weakfish. As with all lures, if bluefish are around, a short trace of stranded wire leader should be used to prevent chopped off lines. Berkeley makes pre-rigged leaders for just such purposes. I use the 6 inch 20 pound test version.
2. Rebel #S3001S, 5 inch sinking minnow in silver with black back.
This will also catch all gamefish but is particularly deadly for mid-water use and when fish are on the shy side. This is a super lure for big weakfish in water up to 15 feet deep. It is also a great lure for school bass along the banks and edges of channels.
3. Atom #58P, 1 1/4 ounce "Talking Atom" surface popper.
The best all around surface lure. This lure it most effective with calm water conditions, in fairly shallow water, or when fish are feeding near the surface. It also casts a long distance.
ADDENDUM
Those things that I think are a must, but mentioning them where I should have would have broken my self-imposed rule of only three recommendations.
1. Lead head hooks.
These are a must for rigging plastic lures such as jelly worms and salty dog shrimps. These are still very effective lures. Mann makes excellent lead heads in two sizes. I carry at least half a dozen of each size.
2. Diamond Jigs.
These jigs are best for working schools of fish in a vertical fashion rather than casting. Ava brand jigs are popular and work very well. For bay fishing I use the 007, 17 and 27 sizes both with white tubes and with plain hooks.
3. McClane's Fishing Encyclopedia.
This is a most informative and useful addition to any fisherman's library. I would have to consider it a part of the basic equipment required. It can provide information about the life history, feeding habits and basic behavior of the fish you will pursue, the basic rigs you should use and the knots you will have to learn to tie. I still consult it frequently and can't imagine not having it.
All that I have mentioned may seem like a lot but it is what I believe to be essential for the person that really wants to be successful at catching fish. I am also sure that other people might have recommendations that differ from mine. What I have written is not the last word, but simply my suggestion. Hopefully it can serve as a guideline for someone that has made up their mind to quit playing games and do it the right way.
How to store live eels:
How to store live eels:
Find a five gallon plastic bucket with a locking top. Drill 7/16 holes approximately every two inches in the walls, top and bottom. Place about 3 inches of golf ball size stones in the bucket for ballast. The eels really like to wiggle in between the rocks. Tie a line to the handle and suspend the bucket from a dock or your boat. Keep it down near the bottom where the water is cool. Don’t worry about feeding them. Lots of little tasty creatures will drift in through the holes and provide them with snacks. I have kept eels this way for up to two months.
Find a five gallon plastic bucket with a locking top. Drill 7/16 holes approximately every two inches in the walls, top and bottom. Place about 3 inches of golf ball size stones in the bucket for ballast. The eels really like to wiggle in between the rocks. Tie a line to the handle and suspend the bucket from a dock or your boat. Keep it down near the bottom where the water is cool. Don’t worry about feeding them. Lots of little tasty creatures will drift in through the holes and provide them with snacks. I have kept eels this way for up to two months.
Catch your own Fresh Bait
Catch your own Fresh Bait
Nothing catches fluke better than fresh live bait. It is worth the effort to catch some before fishing. Purchase a small seine net and drag it along the edge of any beach. You should be able to capture a nice selection of killies, spearing or other small offerings that fluke can’t resist. A small cast net with ¼ inch mesh will also work well for those a little more adventurous and it works without having to get wet.
Nothing catches fluke better than fresh live bait. It is worth the effort to catch some before fishing. Purchase a small seine net and drag it along the edge of any beach. You should be able to capture a nice selection of killies, spearing or other small offerings that fluke can’t resist. A small cast net with ¼ inch mesh will also work well for those a little more adventurous and it works without having to get wet.
MOVE TO GET THE BEST WIND/TIDE CONDITIONS
MOVE TO GET THE BEST WIND/TIDE CONDITIONS
Work the tides and the current. The worst situation to have is a wind directly in-line or directly against the tide if you are drift fishing. Working with the wind will move you too fast and make it difficult to hold the bottom. Drifting against the wind will slow the boat so much that you will not cover ground. When this situation occurs, consider moving to and area where the wind will be at angles to the current. For example, if the wind is due west, it would be difficult to fish in front of Ocean Beach. You will move too fast or too slow. If you move to West Channel, the current moves north and south. With a west or east wind, your drift will be angled across the channel and you will drift at a moderate pace which is best for catching fish.
Work the tides and the current. The worst situation to have is a wind directly in-line or directly against the tide if you are drift fishing. Working with the wind will move you too fast and make it difficult to hold the bottom. Drifting against the wind will slow the boat so much that you will not cover ground. When this situation occurs, consider moving to and area where the wind will be at angles to the current. For example, if the wind is due west, it would be difficult to fish in front of Ocean Beach. You will move too fast or too slow. If you move to West Channel, the current moves north and south. With a west or east wind, your drift will be angled across the channel and you will drift at a moderate pace which is best for catching fish.
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