Trolling With Leadcore
By David Heine
My dad taught me trolling as a way to introduce me into fishing. Trolling allowed us to cover more water and find productive areas to still fish. That was back in the day and I still troll to get fish in the boat. First off, trolling with leadcore has had it's misconceptions and it basically came from using leadcore on over-kill tackle. I use an ABU 6500 C3 for 12-15 leadcore depending upon the manufacture of the line. I will pair that up with a 6"6 fiberglass baitcasting rod, basically a spinnerbait rod one would use for bass fishing. Sometimes I will go up to a worm rod like an 843 Loomis, especially for 15 leadcore when I'm going deep. With a set-up like this, the fishing is much more enjoyable and you will fight the fish instead of just cranking them in. Other reels I use for heavier lb test leadcore include the Shimano Bantam 50,Calcutta 700 (27lb test
leadcore), ABU 5000.
Basically you want a reel that will hold a minimum of 200 yds of 20lb for 12lb leadcore to be put on. And just increase the numbers for a heavier pound test leadcore. When it comes to the rods, I use a 6 foot 6" always and will go with a longer rod when it comes to heavier lb test leadcore. After you have your set-up you will have to experiment when it comes to how much leadcore you can fit on your reel. Basically with a 6500 ABU I can fit a whole spool of 12lb leadcore. And that's with about 20 yds of 10 for backing on the reel along with a leader of 10lb at the end of the leadcore about 6-10 feet long. You can attach the leader one of two ways. You can take the lead out of the leadcore by pinching it and doing a couple of half hitches or you can attach a barrel swivel at the end and tie on you leader. I use the latter of the two but make sure the swivel can make it through the guides and on the reel or you will have a problem on your hands. I gauge my leader length and lb test based on the current lake conditions and species I might encounter. In case your wondering, I have caught walleye, largemouth, smallmouth, stripers, wipers, rainbow, brown and brook trout, huge crappie and the incidental catfish. Leadcore opens up the world of fishing when it comes to specie variation. These are some of basic lures I use which I have found will catch almost anything that swims, just change the colors to match the forage in your body of water. Rapalas - J7 - the most versatile hands down,F7 & F9 also work well. Needlefish, these baits work really well on trout. I use size 2 mostly. I will bend these baits ever so slightly and put Lucky Craft scales on the back side of the baits.
Sometimes I will also put on Gamakatsu trebles as on some of the other baits as well. Smithwick Rattlin Rogues work really well also, the suspending feature is really nice when you stop the motor and the bait stops in it's tracks. Another killer bait/combo is an Apex with a mini-dodger. A long time favorite amongst salmon fisherman, this combo will take the wary stripers and trout that have been hit hard. The key here is to troll the bait s-l-o-w-l-y. Speeds at 0.9 - 1.2 work best with the dodger and Apex. When you decide which bait you will start with the next step is making sure it works at the speeds your motor will troll at. Put the bait in the water along side the boat and vary the speed of the motor until the right action is achieved. Now comes the depth at which
you will be fishing. Lure depth will vary with trolling speed and the type of lure you are using. A graph really comes in handy, and one with a speed/temp sensor is really the best. As a basic rule of thumb with some variables of course, this is what I have found - 12 leadcore with rapala can achieve a max depth ( all colors out ) of around 30-35 feet deep depending upon speed. 15 - 27 lb leadcore will depend upon how much you can fit on your reel. One way to achieve a greater depth without using heavier leadcore is to use some of today's bass crankbaits. With some crankbaits on the market breaking the 20 foot barrier with monofilament, leadcore can achieve a greater depth. I have found the following baits to work great when I need to get down there - Bill Normans DD 22, Manns 15+, 20+, Rapala Risto Raps, and that's just to name a few.
Remember to experiment when it comes to baits to find what works best for you.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Versatility For Success!!
Versatility For Success!!
By Capt. John Ford
I must admit "fly fishing" is my favorite way to fish any body of water. But the one thing I have not become is "close minded " to other forms of fishing. Light tackle plugging is one form everyone should leave room for and I guarantee it will improve even your fly fishing results!
Unlike most I'm blessed with the opportunity to be on the water almost everyday. Even when not guiding I'm searching out new holding areas and keeping up with the constant changing conditions. One way that has helped me do this efficiently is plugging. You can cover more water in shorter amounts of time helping you FIND more fish holding areas. Here are some things you should do:
1. Buy a quality rod- G.Loomis and St.Croix make some great light tackle rods that will handle BIG fish.
2. Cut the treble hooks off plugs (husky jerk baits, jumping minnows are some of my favorites) and replace them with single hooks. This will not only make releasing fish easier but will also make them semi-weedless.
3. Use QUALITY line- 14lb test is perfect and nice to cast but you better make sure its
"good" line because plugs are expensive.
4. Methodically work an area- most fish won't move very far to eat so take your time and remember the places that hold fish.
With the recent explosion in saltwater fly fishing I find that some guys who are fairly competent fly anglers cannot even operate a spinning reel and don't want to?? I say broaden your fishing skills and become a more "well rounded" fisherman and it will only improve your understanding of the sport and improve your chances of SUCCESS.
Have fun and "Dream Big Fish"
Capt John Ford
Portland Guide Service
Captain John Ford runs Portland Guide Service. Fishing Casco Bay, Maine for trophy Striped Bass with Fly and Light tackle. You can reach him at (207) 471-5858 or http//:www.mainesaltwaterfishing.com
By Capt. John Ford
I must admit "fly fishing" is my favorite way to fish any body of water. But the one thing I have not become is "close minded " to other forms of fishing. Light tackle plugging is one form everyone should leave room for and I guarantee it will improve even your fly fishing results!
Unlike most I'm blessed with the opportunity to be on the water almost everyday. Even when not guiding I'm searching out new holding areas and keeping up with the constant changing conditions. One way that has helped me do this efficiently is plugging. You can cover more water in shorter amounts of time helping you FIND more fish holding areas. Here are some things you should do:
1. Buy a quality rod- G.Loomis and St.Croix make some great light tackle rods that will handle BIG fish.
2. Cut the treble hooks off plugs (husky jerk baits, jumping minnows are some of my favorites) and replace them with single hooks. This will not only make releasing fish easier but will also make them semi-weedless.
3. Use QUALITY line- 14lb test is perfect and nice to cast but you better make sure its
"good" line because plugs are expensive.
4. Methodically work an area- most fish won't move very far to eat so take your time and remember the places that hold fish.
With the recent explosion in saltwater fly fishing I find that some guys who are fairly competent fly anglers cannot even operate a spinning reel and don't want to?? I say broaden your fishing skills and become a more "well rounded" fisherman and it will only improve your understanding of the sport and improve your chances of SUCCESS.
Have fun and "Dream Big Fish"
Capt John Ford
Portland Guide Service
Captain John Ford runs Portland Guide Service. Fishing Casco Bay, Maine for trophy Striped Bass with Fly and Light tackle. You can reach him at (207) 471-5858 or http//:www.mainesaltwaterfishing.com
WADE FISHING
WADE FISHING
Offers Many Opportunities
By Joe Martino
One does not have to look very far in this portion of the country in order to find decent stream or river fishing. Unlike lake or reservoir fishing, stream fishing usually does not require a lengthy drive or waiting in line at the boat ramp. In fact, all that is required for a successful fishing outing on a local creek is a rod, reel, line and lure. A sense of adventure doesn’t hurt either.
The serenity of the time spent in the stream is another plus. How much closer to nature can you get than fighting a scrappy Smallmouth in his living room? The first time that an acrobatic smallie jumps at eye level or makes a run between your legs, you’re
hooked.
One of the great things about stream fishing is that it is easy to do. I enjoy getting off from work and heading to one of our local creeks for a couple hours of wade fishing. It is something that can be enjoyed on short notice, and does not cost an arm and a leg to get into. With a handful of inexpensive spinners and crank baits, anyone can enjoy this pleasurable activity.
If you plan to be in the water when the temperature is still cool you will need a pair of waders, but in the heat of the summer many people enjoy the rush of the cool water against their legs. If you are like me, a pair of waders generally does not do you much good, as I tend to get wet anyway! Which brings up another useful item when wade fishing – a wading staff. A staff is always a good bet because it enables you to feel a hazardous object before you step into it. A staff is useful for discovering rocks, logs, or holes before you step into them, thus reducing the risk of injury. When selecting a staff, it is a good idea to choose one with a soft tip. By doing so, you will greatly reduce the amount of noise and vibration that is created as the tip of the staff comes into contact with rocks, gravel, etc. This, in turn, will result in fewer spooked fish.
Whether you are fishing for smallmouth, walleye, or any other fish, nothing beats fighting them in a current. I often hear other river fisherman say "I would rather catch fish in a creek or river any day". This is because landing fish in a current adds a whole new degree of difficulty to the sport. Once a lunker bronze back makes a run and gets down stream from you for instance, you better have a lot of faith in your line!
Another advantage to stream and river fishing is that it can really improve your fishing abilities. While conditions in lakes and reservoirs do change regularly, the conditions are never going to be the same twice in a creek or river. The water level will never be the same as it was the last time you were there. Holes may be washed out, or new ones created. Logs may have drifted off or drifted in. The water may be clear, or it may be stained. There are numerous changes that take place constantly in a moving body of water. This demands that a fisherman be adaptive to any given situation. You are not afforded the opportunity to become complacent with an area. I personally believe that if a
person can consistently catch fish under these circumstances that they can catch fish anywhere.
Probably the most exciting thing about wade fishing is that you never know what you are going to catch. You may catch a mixed bag of fish containing everything from rock bass to northern pike.
Wade fishing also enables one to relax and enjoy nature at its finest. Wading in a small stream creates the chance for you to get away from it all and enjoy some quiet time in peaceful surroundings, that is until the creek explodes with a fish on!
Offers Many Opportunities
By Joe Martino
One does not have to look very far in this portion of the country in order to find decent stream or river fishing. Unlike lake or reservoir fishing, stream fishing usually does not require a lengthy drive or waiting in line at the boat ramp. In fact, all that is required for a successful fishing outing on a local creek is a rod, reel, line and lure. A sense of adventure doesn’t hurt either.
The serenity of the time spent in the stream is another plus. How much closer to nature can you get than fighting a scrappy Smallmouth in his living room? The first time that an acrobatic smallie jumps at eye level or makes a run between your legs, you’re
hooked.
One of the great things about stream fishing is that it is easy to do. I enjoy getting off from work and heading to one of our local creeks for a couple hours of wade fishing. It is something that can be enjoyed on short notice, and does not cost an arm and a leg to get into. With a handful of inexpensive spinners and crank baits, anyone can enjoy this pleasurable activity.
If you plan to be in the water when the temperature is still cool you will need a pair of waders, but in the heat of the summer many people enjoy the rush of the cool water against their legs. If you are like me, a pair of waders generally does not do you much good, as I tend to get wet anyway! Which brings up another useful item when wade fishing – a wading staff. A staff is always a good bet because it enables you to feel a hazardous object before you step into it. A staff is useful for discovering rocks, logs, or holes before you step into them, thus reducing the risk of injury. When selecting a staff, it is a good idea to choose one with a soft tip. By doing so, you will greatly reduce the amount of noise and vibration that is created as the tip of the staff comes into contact with rocks, gravel, etc. This, in turn, will result in fewer spooked fish.
Whether you are fishing for smallmouth, walleye, or any other fish, nothing beats fighting them in a current. I often hear other river fisherman say "I would rather catch fish in a creek or river any day". This is because landing fish in a current adds a whole new degree of difficulty to the sport. Once a lunker bronze back makes a run and gets down stream from you for instance, you better have a lot of faith in your line!
Another advantage to stream and river fishing is that it can really improve your fishing abilities. While conditions in lakes and reservoirs do change regularly, the conditions are never going to be the same twice in a creek or river. The water level will never be the same as it was the last time you were there. Holes may be washed out, or new ones created. Logs may have drifted off or drifted in. The water may be clear, or it may be stained. There are numerous changes that take place constantly in a moving body of water. This demands that a fisherman be adaptive to any given situation. You are not afforded the opportunity to become complacent with an area. I personally believe that if a
person can consistently catch fish under these circumstances that they can catch fish anywhere.
Probably the most exciting thing about wade fishing is that you never know what you are going to catch. You may catch a mixed bag of fish containing everything from rock bass to northern pike.
Wade fishing also enables one to relax and enjoy nature at its finest. Wading in a small stream creates the chance for you to get away from it all and enjoy some quiet time in peaceful surroundings, that is until the creek explodes with a fish on!
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Getting to Fish Like The Pros
Getting to Fish Like The Pros
By: Mike Lundy
If you are like me, you have noticed that some people just catch more fish than others. If you talk to a number of people, you know that it is not just a matter of luck but hard won practice and experience. Countless articles have been written to help people like myself understand the techniques that work. Despite all of this very friendly help, I have so little time on the water, that I was having trouble mastering the art of catching more fish.
Perhaps it is my engineering background, but I just could not let the problem of becoming a better fisherman alone. Maybe I just don't like to lose.
When I studied the experts, I found certain elements in common. One of the common themes in all of the articles I read was to put your bait in the strike zone of the fish. Have you ever asked an expert how they know that their bait is in the strike zone? The answer I got was that they just knew where the bait was, they could just "feel it". And they could! They pictured where the bait was as they retrieved the line.
To me, that was not telling me much. I understood that fish like to be near structure and drop offs. I could use my fish finder and locate the structure. But I'll be darn if I could control my bait to make it do what I wanted it to do when I could not see or "feel" where the bait was during the retrieval.
You have heard the saying "necessity is the mother of invention". I had a need to control where and how deep my bait was during the retrieve. After some thought and a lot of experimentation, I developed a way to let me know where the bait was and exactly how deep I was fishing. The answer came from making a devise that would dispense an exact amount of line measured from the surface of the water. The devise would also allow me to retrieve and "see" right where the bait was as I retrieved the line. With this I could do what the pro's did without the skill level they
have. Since I was able to set a precise depth to within 0.1 feet (1.2 inches), I named my devise the Dial-a-Depth Fishing Float™.
I was able to do three new techniques of fishing to put my bait in the strike zone. When I found fish in a school, I could set the depth and drop my bait right in the middle of the school. I was able to precisely control the depth by setting the dials on the float to the depth where the fish were on my fish finder. This "Controlled Depth" fishing made it easy to put my bait right among the fish. This was great for schooling fish.
The second method was "Controlled Depth Jigging". Once the line was dispensed to the set depth, lifting the rod tip would cause the bait to jig up and down at the precise depth I had set. This gave the bait a life-like action. If I cast into heavy cover such as submerged trees, I was able to set the depth and move my lure near and around the branches. I could see the float and know where my bait was in relationship to the trees. This let me know I was in the strike zone without the superhuman skill of the pros. I also found that I got far fewer snags. When I retrieved the line, the lure would move primarily vertically with a small amount of horizontal motion. This action let my lure jump over branches and avoid the snags that were a common experience before.
Another method I had read about was fishing drop-offs. Here all you had to do was let you bait fall down a drop-off to where the fish were waiting. I saw pictures of just how it works. The problem I had was knowing when my bait was going over the drop-off so I could let the line go slack to let it drop vertically down to the fish. To me this was more magic of the pros who could somehow "see" though the dark water. To solve this problem for a rank amateur like myself, I set my Dial-a-Depth to a depth greater than the depth of the water. That way each time I let the line go slack, my lure would drop to the bottom again. As I retrieved my line, I could see where the float was, and I could see if more line was dispensed when I let it drop back to the bottom. The inertia of the float caused my bait to drop vertically just as though I were right above the drop-off. Once again I had found a method of putting my bait in the strike zone of the fish.
Another attribute of the above methods was that I was able to keep my bait in the strike zone for a longer period while I kept my bait moving. I was able to work larger areas to locate the fish. I was able to compensate for bad casts by maneuvering my Dial-a-Depth float to where I wanted it to go.
In some ways, this method is similar to the new method of drop-shotting with the added advantage of covering more water. I was able to make a worm dance each time I lifted my rod tip. The worm I used would rise and fall in a life-like fashion as it moved slowly back to my boat. This slow retrieval with lots of worm action keeps the bait in the strike zone for long periods of time while I walk it across large areas. I find that this is a great method to locate fish that are biting.
You may think that I have come up with a devise that has an unfair advantage. Frankly, I doubt that I will ever become a pro even with the
Dial-a-Depth Fishing Float™. I have to work too many hours to find the time on the water to master the many other things that must be done to really compete. I have found a way to make my time on the water more productive and more fun. After all, it is sport to me, not a vocation. I fish because I want to have fun, and much of the fun is in the catching. I hope that more amateurs catch more fish using the techniques I have discussed here.
Submitted by,
Mike Lundy, Registered Professional Engineer
Dial-a-Depth Fishing Float™
Wasber Industries
By: Mike Lundy
If you are like me, you have noticed that some people just catch more fish than others. If you talk to a number of people, you know that it is not just a matter of luck but hard won practice and experience. Countless articles have been written to help people like myself understand the techniques that work. Despite all of this very friendly help, I have so little time on the water, that I was having trouble mastering the art of catching more fish.
Perhaps it is my engineering background, but I just could not let the problem of becoming a better fisherman alone. Maybe I just don't like to lose.
When I studied the experts, I found certain elements in common. One of the common themes in all of the articles I read was to put your bait in the strike zone of the fish. Have you ever asked an expert how they know that their bait is in the strike zone? The answer I got was that they just knew where the bait was, they could just "feel it". And they could! They pictured where the bait was as they retrieved the line.
To me, that was not telling me much. I understood that fish like to be near structure and drop offs. I could use my fish finder and locate the structure. But I'll be darn if I could control my bait to make it do what I wanted it to do when I could not see or "feel" where the bait was during the retrieval.
You have heard the saying "necessity is the mother of invention". I had a need to control where and how deep my bait was during the retrieve. After some thought and a lot of experimentation, I developed a way to let me know where the bait was and exactly how deep I was fishing. The answer came from making a devise that would dispense an exact amount of line measured from the surface of the water. The devise would also allow me to retrieve and "see" right where the bait was as I retrieved the line. With this I could do what the pro's did without the skill level they
have. Since I was able to set a precise depth to within 0.1 feet (1.2 inches), I named my devise the Dial-a-Depth Fishing Float™.
I was able to do three new techniques of fishing to put my bait in the strike zone. When I found fish in a school, I could set the depth and drop my bait right in the middle of the school. I was able to precisely control the depth by setting the dials on the float to the depth where the fish were on my fish finder. This "Controlled Depth" fishing made it easy to put my bait right among the fish. This was great for schooling fish.
The second method was "Controlled Depth Jigging". Once the line was dispensed to the set depth, lifting the rod tip would cause the bait to jig up and down at the precise depth I had set. This gave the bait a life-like action. If I cast into heavy cover such as submerged trees, I was able to set the depth and move my lure near and around the branches. I could see the float and know where my bait was in relationship to the trees. This let me know I was in the strike zone without the superhuman skill of the pros. I also found that I got far fewer snags. When I retrieved the line, the lure would move primarily vertically with a small amount of horizontal motion. This action let my lure jump over branches and avoid the snags that were a common experience before.
Another method I had read about was fishing drop-offs. Here all you had to do was let you bait fall down a drop-off to where the fish were waiting. I saw pictures of just how it works. The problem I had was knowing when my bait was going over the drop-off so I could let the line go slack to let it drop vertically down to the fish. To me this was more magic of the pros who could somehow "see" though the dark water. To solve this problem for a rank amateur like myself, I set my Dial-a-Depth to a depth greater than the depth of the water. That way each time I let the line go slack, my lure would drop to the bottom again. As I retrieved my line, I could see where the float was, and I could see if more line was dispensed when I let it drop back to the bottom. The inertia of the float caused my bait to drop vertically just as though I were right above the drop-off. Once again I had found a method of putting my bait in the strike zone of the fish.
Another attribute of the above methods was that I was able to keep my bait in the strike zone for a longer period while I kept my bait moving. I was able to work larger areas to locate the fish. I was able to compensate for bad casts by maneuvering my Dial-a-Depth float to where I wanted it to go.
In some ways, this method is similar to the new method of drop-shotting with the added advantage of covering more water. I was able to make a worm dance each time I lifted my rod tip. The worm I used would rise and fall in a life-like fashion as it moved slowly back to my boat. This slow retrieval with lots of worm action keeps the bait in the strike zone for long periods of time while I walk it across large areas. I find that this is a great method to locate fish that are biting.
You may think that I have come up with a devise that has an unfair advantage. Frankly, I doubt that I will ever become a pro even with the
Dial-a-Depth Fishing Float™. I have to work too many hours to find the time on the water to master the many other things that must be done to really compete. I have found a way to make my time on the water more productive and more fun. After all, it is sport to me, not a vocation. I fish because I want to have fun, and much of the fun is in the catching. I hope that more amateurs catch more fish using the techniques I have discussed here.
Submitted by,
Mike Lundy, Registered Professional Engineer
Dial-a-Depth Fishing Float™
Wasber Industries
Increase Your Catch with the Lipless Vibrator
Increase Your Catch with the Lipless Vibrator
(Basic Techniques for the LV Series of Lures from Lucky Craft)
By Jeremiah T. Bagwell
If you have never thrown an LV Series lure from Lucky Craft then chances are you have missed tons of bass. The LV Series is one of the most productive bait lines on the market. With its baitfish looking design and extremely loud rattles the LV Series lures can call bass from the depths of any lake. LV which stands for "Lipless Vibrator" is an understatement. I think this lure should be called the "Lipless Louder than a Dump Truck Driving Over Speed Bumps at 70mph Lure". This lure contains glass and brass rattles that produce a very unique fish attracting sound.
Right out the box the LV Series lures are effective baits that require no after market modifications. Each bait comes standard with a high performance split ring to ensure that the bait runs true cast after cast. It also prevents anglers from tying their knots directly on the split in the ring which would cause line breakage. These spectacular lures also come from the factory with super sharp treble hooks that can withstand the abuse from catching hundreds and hundreds of fish.
When selecting the color and size of bait to use I go by a very simple rule of thumb. This rule is just my own personal opinion and should not be viewed as the only "right" way to chose colors and sizes. When the sky is overcast or the water is overly stained I tend to use a gold colored bait. On sunny days or in clear water situations I go for silver bait. My two favorite colors of LV Series baits are Aurora Gold and American Shad.
These particular colors add a little bonus to the standard gold and silver baits. They appear to have almost a holographic design that refracts light and produces multiple colors at the same time. Three time Bass-Masters Classic qualifier and Lucky Craft Prostaff member Mike Auten would tend to agree with my method for bait color selection. While speaking with Mike he told me that on cloudy days he prefers to use painted baits that don't offer much reflection. He said the paint itself will refract any available light and make the bait more visible to the fish. On sunny days Mike prefers to use chrome colored bait that will reflect the sunlight through the water.
As far as choosing which size bait to use, 99% of the time I will throw the 7/16 ounce LV 100. If the fish seem to be a little finicky I will then downsize to a 1/4 ounce LV 70. On days it seems only the smaller fish will take the smaller baits or if I simply need to get the bait down deeper on my retrieve I will then tie on a 3/4 ounce LV 500. For those of you just starting out I would recommend buying the 7/16 ounce size. This is an all around good size that will allow you to get comfortable with the bait and at the same time build up your confidence level. Once you gain that all important, confidence in the bait by all means feel free to buy all three sizes in a variety of colors.
When it comes to retrieval speeds and techniques involved with the LV Series, I have no set in stone formula for choosing which one to use. I simply try one for a while and if it doesn't produce I simply switch it up a little. Usually I will begin with a fairly quick tempo retrieve with a few quick jerks thrown in to add erratic movement to the bait. I will also use what I call the "side to side" and "up and down" retrieval methods. These techniques are as simple as their names. As the name implies when using the "up and down" method I will simply move my rod tip up and down at a relatively slow rate. This will change the depth at which the bait is running just a little bit with each movement. With the "side to side" technique I move the rod tip from my left to my right and then back again at a slower rate. This will allow the bait to have a little variance in its course of travel.
Although these techniques seem very minor and on the verge of being dumb, they can in fact put a lot more fish in the livewell. The easiest way to explain my logic behind these simple methods is to just ask yourself "when the last time was that you saw a baitfish in your favorite lake swim in a perfectly straight line?" Now you understand my methodology don't you? Another retrieval method I use is too simply "burn" the bait through the water. There have been several cases where I will find a warm pocket of very muddy water containing a large number of bass. Usually when I come across this situation, I can only get those fish to strike the bait by
casting as far as I can over the pocket and reeling the bait in as fast as I can crank. When I mentioned that point to Mike Auten he said well that just goes to show you that fish are going hit what they want and not just what they are supposed to want.
Throughout the course of my conversation with Pro Angler Mike Auten he told me some of his favorite techniques and times to use the Lucky Craft LV Series lures. Mike said that the LV Series is great search bait because; you can cover a lot of water with the lure. He said he likes to fish the bait on large flats, flats that have a lot of grass on them and a variety of other applications. He also stated that the LV Series lures would stay in the strike zone a lot longer than other baits. Mike also reiterated the fact to me that it is very important to stay in contact with the cover you are fishing. Whether it is grass or lay downs try to keep the bait as close to that cover as you can get it. It is also very important to bump the cover as frequently as possible.
I agreed whole-heartedly with Mike Auten when he said that in his opinion the LV Series of baits from Lucky Craft is great bait even for beginners. This series of lures is easy to use and will catch an abundance of fish. Give this bait a try and I am positive you will soon find yourself in bass fishing heaven.
(Basic Techniques for the LV Series of Lures from Lucky Craft)
By Jeremiah T. Bagwell
If you have never thrown an LV Series lure from Lucky Craft then chances are you have missed tons of bass. The LV Series is one of the most productive bait lines on the market. With its baitfish looking design and extremely loud rattles the LV Series lures can call bass from the depths of any lake. LV which stands for "Lipless Vibrator" is an understatement. I think this lure should be called the "Lipless Louder than a Dump Truck Driving Over Speed Bumps at 70mph Lure". This lure contains glass and brass rattles that produce a very unique fish attracting sound.
Right out the box the LV Series lures are effective baits that require no after market modifications. Each bait comes standard with a high performance split ring to ensure that the bait runs true cast after cast. It also prevents anglers from tying their knots directly on the split in the ring which would cause line breakage. These spectacular lures also come from the factory with super sharp treble hooks that can withstand the abuse from catching hundreds and hundreds of fish.
When selecting the color and size of bait to use I go by a very simple rule of thumb. This rule is just my own personal opinion and should not be viewed as the only "right" way to chose colors and sizes. When the sky is overcast or the water is overly stained I tend to use a gold colored bait. On sunny days or in clear water situations I go for silver bait. My two favorite colors of LV Series baits are Aurora Gold and American Shad.
These particular colors add a little bonus to the standard gold and silver baits. They appear to have almost a holographic design that refracts light and produces multiple colors at the same time. Three time Bass-Masters Classic qualifier and Lucky Craft Prostaff member Mike Auten would tend to agree with my method for bait color selection. While speaking with Mike he told me that on cloudy days he prefers to use painted baits that don't offer much reflection. He said the paint itself will refract any available light and make the bait more visible to the fish. On sunny days Mike prefers to use chrome colored bait that will reflect the sunlight through the water.
As far as choosing which size bait to use, 99% of the time I will throw the 7/16 ounce LV 100. If the fish seem to be a little finicky I will then downsize to a 1/4 ounce LV 70. On days it seems only the smaller fish will take the smaller baits or if I simply need to get the bait down deeper on my retrieve I will then tie on a 3/4 ounce LV 500. For those of you just starting out I would recommend buying the 7/16 ounce size. This is an all around good size that will allow you to get comfortable with the bait and at the same time build up your confidence level. Once you gain that all important, confidence in the bait by all means feel free to buy all three sizes in a variety of colors.
When it comes to retrieval speeds and techniques involved with the LV Series, I have no set in stone formula for choosing which one to use. I simply try one for a while and if it doesn't produce I simply switch it up a little. Usually I will begin with a fairly quick tempo retrieve with a few quick jerks thrown in to add erratic movement to the bait. I will also use what I call the "side to side" and "up and down" retrieval methods. These techniques are as simple as their names. As the name implies when using the "up and down" method I will simply move my rod tip up and down at a relatively slow rate. This will change the depth at which the bait is running just a little bit with each movement. With the "side to side" technique I move the rod tip from my left to my right and then back again at a slower rate. This will allow the bait to have a little variance in its course of travel.
Although these techniques seem very minor and on the verge of being dumb, they can in fact put a lot more fish in the livewell. The easiest way to explain my logic behind these simple methods is to just ask yourself "when the last time was that you saw a baitfish in your favorite lake swim in a perfectly straight line?" Now you understand my methodology don't you? Another retrieval method I use is too simply "burn" the bait through the water. There have been several cases where I will find a warm pocket of very muddy water containing a large number of bass. Usually when I come across this situation, I can only get those fish to strike the bait by
casting as far as I can over the pocket and reeling the bait in as fast as I can crank. When I mentioned that point to Mike Auten he said well that just goes to show you that fish are going hit what they want and not just what they are supposed to want.
Throughout the course of my conversation with Pro Angler Mike Auten he told me some of his favorite techniques and times to use the Lucky Craft LV Series lures. Mike said that the LV Series is great search bait because; you can cover a lot of water with the lure. He said he likes to fish the bait on large flats, flats that have a lot of grass on them and a variety of other applications. He also stated that the LV Series lures would stay in the strike zone a lot longer than other baits. Mike also reiterated the fact to me that it is very important to stay in contact with the cover you are fishing. Whether it is grass or lay downs try to keep the bait as close to that cover as you can get it. It is also very important to bump the cover as frequently as possible.
I agreed whole-heartedly with Mike Auten when he said that in his opinion the LV Series of baits from Lucky Craft is great bait even for beginners. This series of lures is easy to use and will catch an abundance of fish. Give this bait a try and I am positive you will soon find yourself in bass fishing heaven.
Jig Fishing Techniques
Jig Fishing Techniques
by Steve vonBrandt
Today's soft plastic lure market is booming with new styles and colors of baits, but when you are looking for the biggest bite of the day, the fish that consistently win tournaments; then anglers in the know go to the bait that has been proven over time to catch the biggest bass; the venerable jig-and-pig.
20 years ago, this bait was reserved for the sluggish bass, or for fishing in the heaviest cover, or for bottom fishing techniques. Today, this bait is being used at all times of the year, in a variety of different fashions.
This bait has remained relatively the same over the past 30 years. It has gone through
some cosmetic changes, such as better hooks, livelier skirts, and a broader spectrum of colors and sizes, along with plastic trailers, which enable a wider variety of color options, but this bait, dressed with either plastic or pork, continues to catch bigger bass when other baits fail. Because of the popularity of the flipping technique used by most of the veteran anglers today, the jig has remained among the most popular baits in many anglers tackle boxes. Because of so many recreational anglers concentrating on the flipping technique, the jig's universal effectiveness has been overlooked.
Many people have forgotten that casting a jig is an effective technique also. The jig can be presented at a lot of different depths and around a variety of structure. You are really limiting yourself if you only focus on the flipping aspect of it. Many times during the summer months, we have come in behind other anglers flipping obvious targets, or casting more traditional summer lures, and we have caught bass making roll casts, looking for isolated pieces of cover that other anglers have missed.
DIFFERENT SIZES
Jig sizes have changed in recent years, along with skirt material and colors. The 3/8 ounce size remains the most popular, with smaller versions are being used more and more with great success. The smaller finesse type of jigs are much more effective in clear water, while the heavier, bulky versions are great for fishing stained to muddy water. Not that the heavier jig isn't effective in some shallower, open water, but a more compact 1/2 ounce bait is more effective. This is especially true when fishing some of the finger lakes of New York State, or any of the waters where smallmouth bass are also present. The heavier jig is more effective when the bass are aggressive, as it allows you to fish it faster and cover more water. When the fish are suspended, or you need to keep it in the strike zone longer, the lighter jig is more effective.
We always keep experimenting with several sizes, letting the bass tell us what they want. In the summer months, when we swim the jig around boat docks, we opt for the lighter 1/4 ounce size, with a plastic trailer, to imitate a crawfish or baitfish. Swimming the jig is a very effective technique that is overlooked by many weekend anglers. Most small jigs don't have a big enough hook to handle quality bass, which is why we use a Strike King Bitsy Bug. We have been using this bait since 1998, when we had great success with it in several local tournaments in cold water as well as in the summer. The Bitsy Bug has a bigger hook than most, and it handles larger bass well. In warmer, clear water, we like to use a grub or swimming worm as a trailer, this is very effective when you are trying to imitate a crawfish. In colder, or more
stained to muddy waters, we like a bulkier trailer, as they displace more water and make it easier for the bass to home in on the bait.
The design of the jighead is another thing you have to think about. They need to be matched to the type of cover you are fishing. A jig that has a head that is more pointed, with its eyelet coming out of the front rather than the top, is going to pull through weeds better than a broad shouldered jig. We like to use a Jungle Jig, by Northland for this. This is one of the jigs that helped us win the Big Bass World Championship several times. It was very effective here in the Northeast, in some of the heavier, weedy cover. When we fish around rocks and wood, we use a jig with more shoulders to help stop it sometimes. Many companies make this type of football or stand up jig, which is great for these situations. When you pull it over an object, the jig tips, adding more action. We have used these jigs effectively on many of New Jersey's reservoirs such as Spruce Run. You must also match the size of the line to the size of the jig hook you are using. A heavy-duty jig hook requires a stronger hook set, so you need heavier line to handle it.
Of course, it helps to know when you're getting a bite. Big bass really thump a jig with the same vigor they do a plastic worm, and many other strikes are felt simply as spongy sensation, or just like you're dragging weeds. That's why it is important to set the hook on anything that feels unnatural, it could be weeds, or it could be a 7 pounder!
JIG COLORS
While a black and blue jig seem to be the favorite, we like to match jig colors to the water conditions. A dark colored jig with a big crawfish trailer, moving on the bottom, does a great job imitating a crawfish, but a white jig swimming over cover and around boat docks does a good job of imitating a baitfish. This is great when bass want a slower presentation, or when you can't fish a crankbait or jerkbait with ease. Many times when bass are feeding on shad, but want a slower presentation than a spinnerbait, this is the best choice. It can also catch the bigger bass, that are ignoring the spinnerbait.
We like the plastic trailers in the summer months, and the pork in the winter. Pork is more pliable in cold water, while plastic gets stiff. In places where many anglers cast tubes or small finesse worms, such as clear water flats, we cast jigs in neutral colors, and catch bigger bass. Many times when bass ignore other baits, the jig will trigger a strike. This is also a great bait for night fishing.
by Steve vonBrandt
Today's soft plastic lure market is booming with new styles and colors of baits, but when you are looking for the biggest bite of the day, the fish that consistently win tournaments; then anglers in the know go to the bait that has been proven over time to catch the biggest bass; the venerable jig-and-pig.
20 years ago, this bait was reserved for the sluggish bass, or for fishing in the heaviest cover, or for bottom fishing techniques. Today, this bait is being used at all times of the year, in a variety of different fashions.
This bait has remained relatively the same over the past 30 years. It has gone through
some cosmetic changes, such as better hooks, livelier skirts, and a broader spectrum of colors and sizes, along with plastic trailers, which enable a wider variety of color options, but this bait, dressed with either plastic or pork, continues to catch bigger bass when other baits fail. Because of the popularity of the flipping technique used by most of the veteran anglers today, the jig has remained among the most popular baits in many anglers tackle boxes. Because of so many recreational anglers concentrating on the flipping technique, the jig's universal effectiveness has been overlooked.
Many people have forgotten that casting a jig is an effective technique also. The jig can be presented at a lot of different depths and around a variety of structure. You are really limiting yourself if you only focus on the flipping aspect of it. Many times during the summer months, we have come in behind other anglers flipping obvious targets, or casting more traditional summer lures, and we have caught bass making roll casts, looking for isolated pieces of cover that other anglers have missed.
DIFFERENT SIZES
Jig sizes have changed in recent years, along with skirt material and colors. The 3/8 ounce size remains the most popular, with smaller versions are being used more and more with great success. The smaller finesse type of jigs are much more effective in clear water, while the heavier, bulky versions are great for fishing stained to muddy water. Not that the heavier jig isn't effective in some shallower, open water, but a more compact 1/2 ounce bait is more effective. This is especially true when fishing some of the finger lakes of New York State, or any of the waters where smallmouth bass are also present. The heavier jig is more effective when the bass are aggressive, as it allows you to fish it faster and cover more water. When the fish are suspended, or you need to keep it in the strike zone longer, the lighter jig is more effective.
We always keep experimenting with several sizes, letting the bass tell us what they want. In the summer months, when we swim the jig around boat docks, we opt for the lighter 1/4 ounce size, with a plastic trailer, to imitate a crawfish or baitfish. Swimming the jig is a very effective technique that is overlooked by many weekend anglers. Most small jigs don't have a big enough hook to handle quality bass, which is why we use a Strike King Bitsy Bug. We have been using this bait since 1998, when we had great success with it in several local tournaments in cold water as well as in the summer. The Bitsy Bug has a bigger hook than most, and it handles larger bass well. In warmer, clear water, we like to use a grub or swimming worm as a trailer, this is very effective when you are trying to imitate a crawfish. In colder, or more
stained to muddy waters, we like a bulkier trailer, as they displace more water and make it easier for the bass to home in on the bait.
The design of the jighead is another thing you have to think about. They need to be matched to the type of cover you are fishing. A jig that has a head that is more pointed, with its eyelet coming out of the front rather than the top, is going to pull through weeds better than a broad shouldered jig. We like to use a Jungle Jig, by Northland for this. This is one of the jigs that helped us win the Big Bass World Championship several times. It was very effective here in the Northeast, in some of the heavier, weedy cover. When we fish around rocks and wood, we use a jig with more shoulders to help stop it sometimes. Many companies make this type of football or stand up jig, which is great for these situations. When you pull it over an object, the jig tips, adding more action. We have used these jigs effectively on many of New Jersey's reservoirs such as Spruce Run. You must also match the size of the line to the size of the jig hook you are using. A heavy-duty jig hook requires a stronger hook set, so you need heavier line to handle it.
Of course, it helps to know when you're getting a bite. Big bass really thump a jig with the same vigor they do a plastic worm, and many other strikes are felt simply as spongy sensation, or just like you're dragging weeds. That's why it is important to set the hook on anything that feels unnatural, it could be weeds, or it could be a 7 pounder!
JIG COLORS
While a black and blue jig seem to be the favorite, we like to match jig colors to the water conditions. A dark colored jig with a big crawfish trailer, moving on the bottom, does a great job imitating a crawfish, but a white jig swimming over cover and around boat docks does a good job of imitating a baitfish. This is great when bass want a slower presentation, or when you can't fish a crankbait or jerkbait with ease. Many times when bass are feeding on shad, but want a slower presentation than a spinnerbait, this is the best choice. It can also catch the bigger bass, that are ignoring the spinnerbait.
We like the plastic trailers in the summer months, and the pork in the winter. Pork is more pliable in cold water, while plastic gets stiff. In places where many anglers cast tubes or small finesse worms, such as clear water flats, we cast jigs in neutral colors, and catch bigger bass. Many times when bass ignore other baits, the jig will trigger a strike. This is also a great bait for night fishing.
Local Hangouts
Local Hangouts
by Steve vonBrandt
All experienced anglers know that on specific bodies of water, there are always certain spots that produce the best bass year after year. When you have fished your best spot, and it is unproductive, do you move to another spot, or stay there hoping for the bass that you know are there to start hitting?
In my 35 years of experience, I have found that you should leave a reliable spot only after you have tried your best, with a variety of time proven baits. This has been proven to me over and over, on a variety of Lakes and Rivers in the country. More times than I can remember, we came right in behind another angler and caught bass
right out of the area that they just worked with only one bait, and moved on.
The top places to catch bass on almost any lake in the country are Docks, Sloping Gravel/Sand Points, Shoreline Drop-offs, and Dense Cover near deep water.
The dense cover such as hyacinth, milfoil, Hydrilla, different varieties of pads, reeds and other grasses, are one of the best areas to big bass. The drop-offs with rocky, sandy, and/or gravel points running into deeper water, with some other structure mixed in at the ends of the points, seems best, and of course boat docks and piers. Never overlook the docks and piers. We have had many a slow day on the Sassafras and Nanticoke, only to switch lures and presentations, in the marinas and boat docks, and catch that one kicker fish or sometimes the biggest bass of the day.
If you check most any pro bass fisherman's outfits, you will usually see these 5 lures tied on, (provided you can get a look at them). They will be a buzzbait, a crankbait, a spinnerbait, a Carolina and/or Drop-Shot rig, and a Jig. There will be many other rods, and other lures ready to use but, these are the mainstay of baits for most any situation in the country. The following strategies should help you thoroughly cover the water from top to bottom.
DROP-OFF SHORES / GRAVEL POINTS
I always look at the way the land around the lake goes into the water. That land usually continues out into the water the same way. Move to within about 25-35 feet from shore, and cast directly to the area with a buzzbait, cutting the water like a piece of pie, over and over, at different speeds and angles. Next, cast the spinnerbait against the shore and work the area at different depths and speeds. Then do the same thing with the crankbait. I use a deep diver for this so it can get down quickly and bounce off rocks, sand, stumps, on the bottom, or mid-depth. I then cast the same area with a Carolina rig, with a French Fry worm, a cut-tail worm, or a Senko. I change boat positions often to work this and the other baits at many angles to the drop-off shore. I stair-step the jig down any rock ledges, and crawl/hop it down the edge of the point where it meets deeper water. I use a smaller Terminator jig for this. On the Gravel/Sandy points, I do the same thing as when I'm Drop-off shores. The color of the water should dictate what color baits to use. If the water is muddy, use louder baits, in black,black/red, Black/Brown combinations; if the water is clear, I pick more natural colors for the baits, and a less noisy model.
DENSE COVER
This is my favorite type of cover to work. First I cast a buzzbait wherever possible, working it in and out of cover at varies angles and retrieves. When the water is really calm, I throw a real small buzzbait that works very slowly on the surface. I have clear skirts, pearl skirts, and other subtle natural colors that I can easily switch. I then throw the spinnerbait, working it in and out of the pockets in the pads, making it turn quickly, then flutter down, and even bulge the surface. I work it a variety of ways until the bass dictate what they want to me. When in the River I make sure I bump into every limb of the tree with the bait at every angle before going to the next bait. If
they don't hit a Fat bodied crankbait around the edges, or dead sticked in the open pockets, then I switch to a Tournament Frog, or Rat, and work this in a variety of conventional and unconventional ways. If this is a good area, and I don't get any hits with these baits, then I would throw the Carolina rig and the jig around the edges of the cover, and right into any pockets in the cover.
DOCKS
These areas always produced for us on sunny days, whether it was in the river or a lake, especially in the summer and early fall. You should approach the docks quietly, and start to work them from farther away with each lure type. Only when they don't hit these other baits first, should you then move in with the jig and Senko, and flip each piling on the dock, then skip the Senko under the dock as far as possible. There are many more tactics you could try if you aren't getting any takers from your best spots, but these are the basics that you should practice every time you go to get into the habit of doing these things. It will become second nature, and you will notice the results in your local or club tournament wins, or your recreational fun.
by Steve vonBrandt
All experienced anglers know that on specific bodies of water, there are always certain spots that produce the best bass year after year. When you have fished your best spot, and it is unproductive, do you move to another spot, or stay there hoping for the bass that you know are there to start hitting?
In my 35 years of experience, I have found that you should leave a reliable spot only after you have tried your best, with a variety of time proven baits. This has been proven to me over and over, on a variety of Lakes and Rivers in the country. More times than I can remember, we came right in behind another angler and caught bass
right out of the area that they just worked with only one bait, and moved on.
The top places to catch bass on almost any lake in the country are Docks, Sloping Gravel/Sand Points, Shoreline Drop-offs, and Dense Cover near deep water.
The dense cover such as hyacinth, milfoil, Hydrilla, different varieties of pads, reeds and other grasses, are one of the best areas to big bass. The drop-offs with rocky, sandy, and/or gravel points running into deeper water, with some other structure mixed in at the ends of the points, seems best, and of course boat docks and piers. Never overlook the docks and piers. We have had many a slow day on the Sassafras and Nanticoke, only to switch lures and presentations, in the marinas and boat docks, and catch that one kicker fish or sometimes the biggest bass of the day.
If you check most any pro bass fisherman's outfits, you will usually see these 5 lures tied on, (provided you can get a look at them). They will be a buzzbait, a crankbait, a spinnerbait, a Carolina and/or Drop-Shot rig, and a Jig. There will be many other rods, and other lures ready to use but, these are the mainstay of baits for most any situation in the country. The following strategies should help you thoroughly cover the water from top to bottom.
DROP-OFF SHORES / GRAVEL POINTS
I always look at the way the land around the lake goes into the water. That land usually continues out into the water the same way. Move to within about 25-35 feet from shore, and cast directly to the area with a buzzbait, cutting the water like a piece of pie, over and over, at different speeds and angles. Next, cast the spinnerbait against the shore and work the area at different depths and speeds. Then do the same thing with the crankbait. I use a deep diver for this so it can get down quickly and bounce off rocks, sand, stumps, on the bottom, or mid-depth. I then cast the same area with a Carolina rig, with a French Fry worm, a cut-tail worm, or a Senko. I change boat positions often to work this and the other baits at many angles to the drop-off shore. I stair-step the jig down any rock ledges, and crawl/hop it down the edge of the point where it meets deeper water. I use a smaller Terminator jig for this. On the Gravel/Sandy points, I do the same thing as when I'm Drop-off shores. The color of the water should dictate what color baits to use. If the water is muddy, use louder baits, in black,black/red, Black/Brown combinations; if the water is clear, I pick more natural colors for the baits, and a less noisy model.
DENSE COVER
This is my favorite type of cover to work. First I cast a buzzbait wherever possible, working it in and out of cover at varies angles and retrieves. When the water is really calm, I throw a real small buzzbait that works very slowly on the surface. I have clear skirts, pearl skirts, and other subtle natural colors that I can easily switch. I then throw the spinnerbait, working it in and out of the pockets in the pads, making it turn quickly, then flutter down, and even bulge the surface. I work it a variety of ways until the bass dictate what they want to me. When in the River I make sure I bump into every limb of the tree with the bait at every angle before going to the next bait. If
they don't hit a Fat bodied crankbait around the edges, or dead sticked in the open pockets, then I switch to a Tournament Frog, or Rat, and work this in a variety of conventional and unconventional ways. If this is a good area, and I don't get any hits with these baits, then I would throw the Carolina rig and the jig around the edges of the cover, and right into any pockets in the cover.
DOCKS
These areas always produced for us on sunny days, whether it was in the river or a lake, especially in the summer and early fall. You should approach the docks quietly, and start to work them from farther away with each lure type. Only when they don't hit these other baits first, should you then move in with the jig and Senko, and flip each piling on the dock, then skip the Senko under the dock as far as possible. There are many more tactics you could try if you aren't getting any takers from your best spots, but these are the basics that you should practice every time you go to get into the habit of doing these things. It will become second nature, and you will notice the results in your local or club tournament wins, or your recreational fun.
Monday, December 17, 2007
Wintertime Flatties
Wintertime Flatties
The January and February ban on catching rockfish produced a nice surprise for Southern California anglers. Traditionally the winter months has sent the sportfishing industry out onto the deepwater banks in search of the tasty rockfish mainly because there was nothing else to fish for. Apparently, the ever abundant rockfish are in a state of decline so the moratorium was enacted. The new law states that anglers cannot catch or possess rockfish during the months of January and February. This really bent the sportfishing industry out of shape. Rockfish has always been the winter time savior for the sportboats and many landings thought they would go broke. Not so! Somebody found the halibut biting with reckless abandon.
Halibut have always disappeared in the winter time. At least that's what everybody thought. A sportboat skipper took a group of anglers into deeper waters for a fishing trip and found the halibut biting like crazy. The rest is history as every sportboat in the area is now drifting across the areas in search of the flatties. One of the clues to this discovery was the endless line of gill nets that spread for miles in the 10 to 20 fathom stretches. We all knew they were netting some halibut but really had no idea as to how many. Anglers are catching and releasing hundreds of halibut a day. One fish in 20 will stretch the 22 inches necessary by law and the fishermen are literally wading through them. But the new fishery has answered some interesting questions about the halibut habitat and introduced some new tackle techniques.
Historically, halibut fishing has always been done through the spring, summer and fall months. They were known to be located in the coastal shallow waters, some just behind the breaker line. This winter the fish are being caught from 50 to 100 feet deep. So it appears that the flatties do not disappear in the winter but move out into deeper water. This depth range seems to be the magical and each day might find the butts at a different depth level within that range. When the skippers finds that level they try to maintain all their fishing at that depth for the days fishing. The next day it may be deeper or shallower but usually not less than 50 feet. I suspect the depth level doesn't change for finding the butts anywhere along the coast. At Catalina the 100 foot level occurs less than 1/2 mile off the shore. In Santa Monica Bay it's about 2 miles off shore. In the Los Angeles area it's about 6 miles out. Anyway, catching halibut at 100 feet can be very difficult for a sportboat loaded with 50 passengers. If you fish from a sportboat take along some heavy sinkers. Remember that all the passengers will be on one side of the boat, all dragging the bottom with at least 3 ounce sinkers. You can escape many tangles by using a heavier sinker than the other anglers. The heavier sinker will keep your bait inside of all the others as you drift along and besides that, your bait will pass over a halibut before your competitor's bait arrives. If the wind is up I can't tell you how difficult it is to land a 20 lb flattie. I would suggest that you use no less than 12 pound test line and 15 pound if the wind is up.
All the sportboat skippers are recommending the use of two hook tandems or fish traps. I really believe that a halibut of legal size doesn't miss taking the bait and you really don't need a tandem. The little ones are mostly caught by the second hook. This is difficult to prove but I have seen large 20 lb flatties inhale a bait in some of my diving adventures. They do it so quick and with such force you will miss the action if you blink. The small boat angler can fish the deep water much easier than the sportboats. He has the ability to slow the drift with the use of a sea anchor. He can quickly turn the boat into the wind and chase the giant halibut, and further the anglers have more space to work in by not being jammed together. Finally he can anchor quickly over an area
where the butts suddenly attack all the baits.
One of my favorite tricks is to take a GPS bearing on an area that sustains numerous bites by the butts. Later, return to that spot and anchor. Halibut are never alone. When you get a lot of bait stops it means many halibut are ambushing the area your bait slid over. By remaining stationary on the anchor you can methodically work the area for 360 degrees using smaller weight sinkers and and much lighter line. I like to cast out as far as possible and inch the bait back. If no strike occurs cast out in a different direction working the entire area, foot by foot. When the area has been completely tested I pull the anchor and start the drift again, Slip sinkers both egg and torpedo seem to be what the anglers like. The sinkers are blocked from sliding down onto the hook with a pinched on split shot or an attached swivel. The leader is about 2 feet to 3 feet long. Hook size should fit the bait.
This season the predominant bait has been sardines. They are very large baits and you can use up to 5/0 size hooks. Lately there has been a trend to treble hooks which work very well but are brutal to a small fish that needs releasing. By far the most popular rig is the fish trap. This device is tied by placing a selective hook a short distance in front of a treble tied on at the end of the line. The latest fish trap is tied together with a small wire connecting the two hooks. I like to use a simple dropper leader with a chrome sinker on the end. The guys in Santa Monica Bay tie up their terminal tackle in this manner, so it must be suitable because they really catch the fish. The important part of this technique, explained to me once by an old veteran, is to tie in the dropper as long as the distance from the knot to the sinker. If you have a 2 foot dropper the distance from the sinker to the knot must also be 2 feet. Don't ask me why. Maybe the sinker bouncing along the bottom scares the struggling bait in such a way as to attract the butts. Knots are important. Jed Welch came up with a knot that allows the front hook on a fish trap to be adjusted up and down to fit the bait length. This way you can hook the bait in the tail and then slide the front hook to a perfect entry through the baits nose.
A barrel knot or a surgeons knot can be used for the leader, but if you use the surgeon knot it's best to have both lines of equal breaking strength. With different test lines the smaller test lines seem to break off easily with the the surgeons knot, especially if the smaller test is tied into the standing line. Also if you use the surgeons knot tie the hook to the standing line and place the sinker on the addition. Be kind to the halibut. Even though there is a minimum of 22 inches, the fish is still very small. If you already have a nice flattie, throw-em all back. One large butt produces more meat per pound than any fish swimming. By the way, when you measure a butt make sure his mouth is closed.
The January and February ban on catching rockfish produced a nice surprise for Southern California anglers. Traditionally the winter months has sent the sportfishing industry out onto the deepwater banks in search of the tasty rockfish mainly because there was nothing else to fish for. Apparently, the ever abundant rockfish are in a state of decline so the moratorium was enacted. The new law states that anglers cannot catch or possess rockfish during the months of January and February. This really bent the sportfishing industry out of shape. Rockfish has always been the winter time savior for the sportboats and many landings thought they would go broke. Not so! Somebody found the halibut biting with reckless abandon.
Halibut have always disappeared in the winter time. At least that's what everybody thought. A sportboat skipper took a group of anglers into deeper waters for a fishing trip and found the halibut biting like crazy. The rest is history as every sportboat in the area is now drifting across the areas in search of the flatties. One of the clues to this discovery was the endless line of gill nets that spread for miles in the 10 to 20 fathom stretches. We all knew they were netting some halibut but really had no idea as to how many. Anglers are catching and releasing hundreds of halibut a day. One fish in 20 will stretch the 22 inches necessary by law and the fishermen are literally wading through them. But the new fishery has answered some interesting questions about the halibut habitat and introduced some new tackle techniques.
Historically, halibut fishing has always been done through the spring, summer and fall months. They were known to be located in the coastal shallow waters, some just behind the breaker line. This winter the fish are being caught from 50 to 100 feet deep. So it appears that the flatties do not disappear in the winter but move out into deeper water. This depth range seems to be the magical and each day might find the butts at a different depth level within that range. When the skippers finds that level they try to maintain all their fishing at that depth for the days fishing. The next day it may be deeper or shallower but usually not less than 50 feet. I suspect the depth level doesn't change for finding the butts anywhere along the coast. At Catalina the 100 foot level occurs less than 1/2 mile off the shore. In Santa Monica Bay it's about 2 miles off shore. In the Los Angeles area it's about 6 miles out. Anyway, catching halibut at 100 feet can be very difficult for a sportboat loaded with 50 passengers. If you fish from a sportboat take along some heavy sinkers. Remember that all the passengers will be on one side of the boat, all dragging the bottom with at least 3 ounce sinkers. You can escape many tangles by using a heavier sinker than the other anglers. The heavier sinker will keep your bait inside of all the others as you drift along and besides that, your bait will pass over a halibut before your competitor's bait arrives. If the wind is up I can't tell you how difficult it is to land a 20 lb flattie. I would suggest that you use no less than 12 pound test line and 15 pound if the wind is up.
All the sportboat skippers are recommending the use of two hook tandems or fish traps. I really believe that a halibut of legal size doesn't miss taking the bait and you really don't need a tandem. The little ones are mostly caught by the second hook. This is difficult to prove but I have seen large 20 lb flatties inhale a bait in some of my diving adventures. They do it so quick and with such force you will miss the action if you blink. The small boat angler can fish the deep water much easier than the sportboats. He has the ability to slow the drift with the use of a sea anchor. He can quickly turn the boat into the wind and chase the giant halibut, and further the anglers have more space to work in by not being jammed together. Finally he can anchor quickly over an area
where the butts suddenly attack all the baits.
One of my favorite tricks is to take a GPS bearing on an area that sustains numerous bites by the butts. Later, return to that spot and anchor. Halibut are never alone. When you get a lot of bait stops it means many halibut are ambushing the area your bait slid over. By remaining stationary on the anchor you can methodically work the area for 360 degrees using smaller weight sinkers and and much lighter line. I like to cast out as far as possible and inch the bait back. If no strike occurs cast out in a different direction working the entire area, foot by foot. When the area has been completely tested I pull the anchor and start the drift again, Slip sinkers both egg and torpedo seem to be what the anglers like. The sinkers are blocked from sliding down onto the hook with a pinched on split shot or an attached swivel. The leader is about 2 feet to 3 feet long. Hook size should fit the bait.
This season the predominant bait has been sardines. They are very large baits and you can use up to 5/0 size hooks. Lately there has been a trend to treble hooks which work very well but are brutal to a small fish that needs releasing. By far the most popular rig is the fish trap. This device is tied by placing a selective hook a short distance in front of a treble tied on at the end of the line. The latest fish trap is tied together with a small wire connecting the two hooks. I like to use a simple dropper leader with a chrome sinker on the end. The guys in Santa Monica Bay tie up their terminal tackle in this manner, so it must be suitable because they really catch the fish. The important part of this technique, explained to me once by an old veteran, is to tie in the dropper as long as the distance from the knot to the sinker. If you have a 2 foot dropper the distance from the sinker to the knot must also be 2 feet. Don't ask me why. Maybe the sinker bouncing along the bottom scares the struggling bait in such a way as to attract the butts. Knots are important. Jed Welch came up with a knot that allows the front hook on a fish trap to be adjusted up and down to fit the bait length. This way you can hook the bait in the tail and then slide the front hook to a perfect entry through the baits nose.
A barrel knot or a surgeons knot can be used for the leader, but if you use the surgeon knot it's best to have both lines of equal breaking strength. With different test lines the smaller test lines seem to break off easily with the the surgeons knot, especially if the smaller test is tied into the standing line. Also if you use the surgeons knot tie the hook to the standing line and place the sinker on the addition. Be kind to the halibut. Even though there is a minimum of 22 inches, the fish is still very small. If you already have a nice flattie, throw-em all back. One large butt produces more meat per pound than any fish swimming. By the way, when you measure a butt make sure his mouth is closed.
Basics Tactics & Techniques of Winter Gulf Fishing
Basics Tactics & Techniques of Winter Gulf Fishing
By Captain Dave Pinkham
The fishing action out on the Gulf this past week was actually pretty good on the days we able to get out. Bottom fishing continues to be one of the best plans to consistently produce fish, with groupers and snappers being the main targets. There has also been a decent showing of black-tip sharks offshore in the 50' to 65' deep range. Most of the sharks have been
averaging in size anywhere from 30 to 70 pounds. These black-tip sharks put up a heck of a fight, and are an exciting addition to a day of fishing out on the Gulf of Mexico. The sharks seem to be drawn to the smell of cut bait such as the sardines we've been using for bottom fishing.
When planning a day of fishing out on the Gulf here are a few tips to help you plan a smooth and safe trip. Before heading out on the Gulf always check out the weather forecast. The weather can change for the worst in a hurry. Also before venturing out on the Gulf make sure your boat is ship-shape and that you have all required Coast Guard equipment on board. Make sure you have a working compass, a good anchor set-up, a VHF marine radio, 1st aid kit, navigation equipment such as loran or GPS, fish finder, and a good working live bait well. It's also advisable to have an up to date list of fish regulations and a ruler to measure your catch.
Before leaving the dock have a trip plan and let someone you know, (preferably someone that loves you) know what your plan is. Of course wind and sea conditions, water clarity, and what fish you're going after will play into this plan.
Always consider the variables in the elements such as tides, barometric pressures, and the solunar tables when heading out to catch fish. As fronts approach fish will often feed. Be sure to monitor the marine radio throughout the day for changing weather and sea conditions. Don't waste too much time in muddy water conditions.
Being proficient at anchoring down over hot spots plays a major role in wintertime fishing on the Gulf. Obviously the more you anchor down your boat over your fishing holes, the better you will get at it. Your anchor set-up should consist of a good setting anchor backed up with a 6' to 8' piece of chain. Don't be skimpy on your anchor rope. I carry a full spool, which by the way is 600'. Be sure to carry a couple of marker jugs to mark the honey hole when you see it on your fish finder. I also carry a float ball with a clip ring to float my anchor as I may pull the anchor half a dozen times on one fishing trip. Try to anchor the boat out in front of the where you think the structure and the fish are located. You can always let out rope to drop back.
Be sure to bring several different weight rod and reel combos. This will allow you to target different species and sizes of fish. Often when the fish are slow to bite, gearing down to lighter tackle will turn things around in your favor. Keep terminal rigs as light as possible. When bottom fishing in the winter months natural baits usually are the most productive.
To locate new areas pick a calm day and go searching for new bottom with your fish finder. This is a great time for trolling. When you see an area that looks promising, note it and return later for a closer look. Carry several marker jugs to mark new spots. When you do find good bottom check out the surrounding area as rock bottom will often spread around the general area. Seeing a turtle at the surface will often indicate hard bottom below.
Courtesy while fishing is very important. It is a no-no to pull close to a boat that is at anchor fishing. You may ask what's too close? If you're within shouting distance you're way too close! Buzzing someone to get his or her fishing hole coordinates is not cool! The exception to this rule would be fishing around the artificial reefs, or known wrecks. When fishing or diving around these locations idle speeds are encouraged for the safety of all. Please handle all fish to be released carefully. The idea is to get the fish back in the water as quickly as possible. This will greatly increase their chance of survival.
If you're not out fishin, you're wishin you were. Get out and go fishin cuz" it's good fer ya!
Capt. Dave Pinkham has been a fishing guide on the Southwest Coast of Florida for more than 20 years. His Deep-Sea Charter-Boat "LEGACY" is based at Dona Bay Marina in Nokomis, one mile from Venice Inlet. For Gulf of Mexico fishing charter information call (941) 473-4603, or visit Capt. Dave's web page at, www.charter-boatfishing.com
By Captain Dave Pinkham
The fishing action out on the Gulf this past week was actually pretty good on the days we able to get out. Bottom fishing continues to be one of the best plans to consistently produce fish, with groupers and snappers being the main targets. There has also been a decent showing of black-tip sharks offshore in the 50' to 65' deep range. Most of the sharks have been
averaging in size anywhere from 30 to 70 pounds. These black-tip sharks put up a heck of a fight, and are an exciting addition to a day of fishing out on the Gulf of Mexico. The sharks seem to be drawn to the smell of cut bait such as the sardines we've been using for bottom fishing.
When planning a day of fishing out on the Gulf here are a few tips to help you plan a smooth and safe trip. Before heading out on the Gulf always check out the weather forecast. The weather can change for the worst in a hurry. Also before venturing out on the Gulf make sure your boat is ship-shape and that you have all required Coast Guard equipment on board. Make sure you have a working compass, a good anchor set-up, a VHF marine radio, 1st aid kit, navigation equipment such as loran or GPS, fish finder, and a good working live bait well. It's also advisable to have an up to date list of fish regulations and a ruler to measure your catch.
Before leaving the dock have a trip plan and let someone you know, (preferably someone that loves you) know what your plan is. Of course wind and sea conditions, water clarity, and what fish you're going after will play into this plan.
Always consider the variables in the elements such as tides, barometric pressures, and the solunar tables when heading out to catch fish. As fronts approach fish will often feed. Be sure to monitor the marine radio throughout the day for changing weather and sea conditions. Don't waste too much time in muddy water conditions.
Being proficient at anchoring down over hot spots plays a major role in wintertime fishing on the Gulf. Obviously the more you anchor down your boat over your fishing holes, the better you will get at it. Your anchor set-up should consist of a good setting anchor backed up with a 6' to 8' piece of chain. Don't be skimpy on your anchor rope. I carry a full spool, which by the way is 600'. Be sure to carry a couple of marker jugs to mark the honey hole when you see it on your fish finder. I also carry a float ball with a clip ring to float my anchor as I may pull the anchor half a dozen times on one fishing trip. Try to anchor the boat out in front of the where you think the structure and the fish are located. You can always let out rope to drop back.
Be sure to bring several different weight rod and reel combos. This will allow you to target different species and sizes of fish. Often when the fish are slow to bite, gearing down to lighter tackle will turn things around in your favor. Keep terminal rigs as light as possible. When bottom fishing in the winter months natural baits usually are the most productive.
To locate new areas pick a calm day and go searching for new bottom with your fish finder. This is a great time for trolling. When you see an area that looks promising, note it and return later for a closer look. Carry several marker jugs to mark new spots. When you do find good bottom check out the surrounding area as rock bottom will often spread around the general area. Seeing a turtle at the surface will often indicate hard bottom below.
Courtesy while fishing is very important. It is a no-no to pull close to a boat that is at anchor fishing. You may ask what's too close? If you're within shouting distance you're way too close! Buzzing someone to get his or her fishing hole coordinates is not cool! The exception to this rule would be fishing around the artificial reefs, or known wrecks. When fishing or diving around these locations idle speeds are encouraged for the safety of all. Please handle all fish to be released carefully. The idea is to get the fish back in the water as quickly as possible. This will greatly increase their chance of survival.
If you're not out fishin, you're wishin you were. Get out and go fishin cuz" it's good fer ya!
Capt. Dave Pinkham has been a fishing guide on the Southwest Coast of Florida for more than 20 years. His Deep-Sea Charter-Boat "LEGACY" is based at Dona Bay Marina in Nokomis, one mile from Venice Inlet. For Gulf of Mexico fishing charter information call (941) 473-4603, or visit Capt. Dave's web page at, www.charter-boatfishing.com
WINTER FISHING
"WINTER FISHING -
PARTY BOAT STYLE"
To a boat owner, the approach of the holidays spells the end of the fishing season here in the northeast. Thoughts of delightful days on the water are replaced by concerns of winterizing the boat to protect it from the elements of the harsh winter to come. For me, this used to be a sad time, sort of like parting with a good friend. A few years ago, however, I discovered that I could still enjoy the rewards of a day of fishing all through the winter season. I discovered that fishing for cod on one of the local party boats was a lot of fun and very rewarding. Party boat fishing for cod in the winter is not at all like
drifting for fluke on a balmy day in July. As such, it requires some important preparation. Protection from the cold ranks high on the priority list. If one would also hope to bag a few tasty cod to grace the holiday table, then some thought should be given to tactics and tackle. Living in Babylon, I find it most convenient to patronize the boats at Captree. I have found that familiar faces and the development of a rapport with the captain, crew and regular customers from one area or boat is most valuable.
As for choosing a boat to sail with, I suggest trying a couple of different boats at the beginning. Each boat has its own particular style and attributes. When you find one that is comfortable for you, patronize that boat as a regular. Remember that it is a business in which regular customers are valued highly. Crews are more willing to go the extra distance for a regular customer. While on the subject of crews, their regular salary is nothing to brag about. They depend upon tips to make a descent day's pay. Winter weather is an important consideration in planning a trip. During this time of year, windless, warm and dry days are almost unheard of, and a certain amount of discomfort is to be expected. However, to board a boat when the forecast calls for winds in excess of 20 mph., temperatures below 20 degrees, and a possibility of sleet or snow is asking for trouble. For these reasons, I avoid long range plans. I listen to the forecasts and wait for the right day, usually finalizing my plan the night before. Concerning proper dress, the rule is light but warm. Layers of lighter weight clothing provide warmth without restricting movement. A quality set of lightweight thermal underwear, such as made by Helly Hansen, warm street clothes and a set of coveralls containing thinsulate is usually sufficient for basic warmth. Insulated waterproof boots and gloves are a must, as is a heavy duty set of foul weather gear for when conditions get sloppy or for added warmth. Don't forget that a great amount of body heat is lost from an uncovered head, so a quality woolen watchcap that can be pulled down over the ears is also in order. In addition, winter seas are usually lumpy even on windless days, so take the normal precautions to prevent seasickness.
Well, how about catching fish? In my experience, I have found that two rules pay off with fish most often. Keep terminal tackle to a minimum and get it where the other guys aren't. The first part is easy. I use a single 7/0 cod style snelled hook attached to a dropper loop three feet above a sinker just heavy enough to hold bottom under the prevailing conditions. I thread on a single skimmer clam, hooking it through the hard tissue several times and running it on up the shank of the hook. This is all that I use, and I have been high hook on the boat a number of times.
The process of getting your bait to be in the most productive spot can actually begin long before the boat leaves the dock. What I am referring to is getting a prime position from which to fish. Since this is a first come first pick affair, it might require arriving at the boat an hour or two before sailing time. I consider the stern quarter to be the best position on the boat. From this position a number of factors are in your favor. Underhand casting can be directed both to the side and astern, thus covering more territory. Baits fished astern from a boat at anchor will not be dragged by currents and are usually the first to be encountered by cod moving up current to the smells of these offerings. Your fishing line also will not run under the boat as it undergoes its normal shifting from side to side. If a stern position is not available, I would take the bow as my second choice. This area provides a degree of advantage similar to the stern, and in addition, is usually not too crowded.
What kind of tackle should you use? My suggestion is to keep it as light as possible but of high quality. Large metal spool reels just cannot cast the distance necessary. Heavy line inhibits casting and requires an excessive amount of sinker weight in order to stay put on the bottom. Double hook rigs with three skimmers on each again restrict
casting and are prone to move in the current. I have never been outfished by someone employing such gear or techniques. I use a Penn 970 reel, as it is compact but strong and made for casting. In addition, it has a high speed retrieve, and a very smooth drag system. Many people laugh when they see this reel being used for cod, especially when it is spooled with only 25 lb. test line. It has caught 40lb. cod and for that matter 40lb. striped bass with no problems in the past. I do splice in a ten foot section of 40lb. mono to the terminal end of my running line in order to prevent breakage of the lighter line at the hook and sinker connection. For a rod, I use an eight foot fast taper medium-heavy blank, preferably graphite. I utilize a minimum of guides and only cork tape on the butt section to which I tape on the reel using a number of wraps of electrical tape. This keeps the outfit light and allows placement of the reel so as to allow for the best casting leverage. With this combination, I can easily cast 75-100 feet and thus get my bait out there all alone and looking good for the first hungry codfish that swims toward the boat.
Good Fishing, Capt. Al Lorenzetti © Al Lorenzetti 1995
PARTY BOAT STYLE"
To a boat owner, the approach of the holidays spells the end of the fishing season here in the northeast. Thoughts of delightful days on the water are replaced by concerns of winterizing the boat to protect it from the elements of the harsh winter to come. For me, this used to be a sad time, sort of like parting with a good friend. A few years ago, however, I discovered that I could still enjoy the rewards of a day of fishing all through the winter season. I discovered that fishing for cod on one of the local party boats was a lot of fun and very rewarding. Party boat fishing for cod in the winter is not at all like
drifting for fluke on a balmy day in July. As such, it requires some important preparation. Protection from the cold ranks high on the priority list. If one would also hope to bag a few tasty cod to grace the holiday table, then some thought should be given to tactics and tackle. Living in Babylon, I find it most convenient to patronize the boats at Captree. I have found that familiar faces and the development of a rapport with the captain, crew and regular customers from one area or boat is most valuable.
As for choosing a boat to sail with, I suggest trying a couple of different boats at the beginning. Each boat has its own particular style and attributes. When you find one that is comfortable for you, patronize that boat as a regular. Remember that it is a business in which regular customers are valued highly. Crews are more willing to go the extra distance for a regular customer. While on the subject of crews, their regular salary is nothing to brag about. They depend upon tips to make a descent day's pay. Winter weather is an important consideration in planning a trip. During this time of year, windless, warm and dry days are almost unheard of, and a certain amount of discomfort is to be expected. However, to board a boat when the forecast calls for winds in excess of 20 mph., temperatures below 20 degrees, and a possibility of sleet or snow is asking for trouble. For these reasons, I avoid long range plans. I listen to the forecasts and wait for the right day, usually finalizing my plan the night before. Concerning proper dress, the rule is light but warm. Layers of lighter weight clothing provide warmth without restricting movement. A quality set of lightweight thermal underwear, such as made by Helly Hansen, warm street clothes and a set of coveralls containing thinsulate is usually sufficient for basic warmth. Insulated waterproof boots and gloves are a must, as is a heavy duty set of foul weather gear for when conditions get sloppy or for added warmth. Don't forget that a great amount of body heat is lost from an uncovered head, so a quality woolen watchcap that can be pulled down over the ears is also in order. In addition, winter seas are usually lumpy even on windless days, so take the normal precautions to prevent seasickness.
Well, how about catching fish? In my experience, I have found that two rules pay off with fish most often. Keep terminal tackle to a minimum and get it where the other guys aren't. The first part is easy. I use a single 7/0 cod style snelled hook attached to a dropper loop three feet above a sinker just heavy enough to hold bottom under the prevailing conditions. I thread on a single skimmer clam, hooking it through the hard tissue several times and running it on up the shank of the hook. This is all that I use, and I have been high hook on the boat a number of times.
The process of getting your bait to be in the most productive spot can actually begin long before the boat leaves the dock. What I am referring to is getting a prime position from which to fish. Since this is a first come first pick affair, it might require arriving at the boat an hour or two before sailing time. I consider the stern quarter to be the best position on the boat. From this position a number of factors are in your favor. Underhand casting can be directed both to the side and astern, thus covering more territory. Baits fished astern from a boat at anchor will not be dragged by currents and are usually the first to be encountered by cod moving up current to the smells of these offerings. Your fishing line also will not run under the boat as it undergoes its normal shifting from side to side. If a stern position is not available, I would take the bow as my second choice. This area provides a degree of advantage similar to the stern, and in addition, is usually not too crowded.
What kind of tackle should you use? My suggestion is to keep it as light as possible but of high quality. Large metal spool reels just cannot cast the distance necessary. Heavy line inhibits casting and requires an excessive amount of sinker weight in order to stay put on the bottom. Double hook rigs with three skimmers on each again restrict
casting and are prone to move in the current. I have never been outfished by someone employing such gear or techniques. I use a Penn 970 reel, as it is compact but strong and made for casting. In addition, it has a high speed retrieve, and a very smooth drag system. Many people laugh when they see this reel being used for cod, especially when it is spooled with only 25 lb. test line. It has caught 40lb. cod and for that matter 40lb. striped bass with no problems in the past. I do splice in a ten foot section of 40lb. mono to the terminal end of my running line in order to prevent breakage of the lighter line at the hook and sinker connection. For a rod, I use an eight foot fast taper medium-heavy blank, preferably graphite. I utilize a minimum of guides and only cork tape on the butt section to which I tape on the reel using a number of wraps of electrical tape. This keeps the outfit light and allows placement of the reel so as to allow for the best casting leverage. With this combination, I can easily cast 75-100 feet and thus get my bait out there all alone and looking good for the first hungry codfish that swims toward the boat.
Good Fishing, Capt. Al Lorenzetti © Al Lorenzetti 1995
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